Majestically rugged, the greatest attraction of this mountain-hemmed Ladakhi-Buddhist valley is simply getting there, preferably on a trek. While days can be scorching hot, come prepared for very cold nights even in summer. Until the Wanla–Honuatta–Lingshet road is extended to Hanumil, the only motorable road in is from Kargil via the glorious Suru Valley, which becomes a very rough but dramatic glacier-dodging lane to isolated Buddhist Rangdum then crosses the 4401m Pensi La.
Wind-scoured Rangdum makes a handy overnight break on the 12-hour Kargil–Padum jeep ride. Its 20 or so low-rise buildings look as though they were dropped randomly onto the remarkably wild, big-sky valley whose meandering streams are backed to the west by a parade of gigantic snaggle-tooth mountains.