Sights in Leh
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A
Leh Palace
Construction of the nine-storey dun-coloured Leh Palace started in 1553. Built by the Buddhist kings of Ladakh, it was once the world’s highest building and bears more than a passing similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa (Tibet). The very sturdy walls are mostly unadorned and a few interior sections remain in a state of partial collapse; only the palace prayer room gives any sense of former grandeur. Nonetheless it’s gently thrilling to weave your way through the maze of dark corridors, hidden stairways and makeshift ladders to reach the rooftop for great views across the city. Carry a torch and watch out for holes in the floor.
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B
Sankar Gompa
The timeless two-storey Gelukpa Sankar Gompa takes you between stone walls and attractive Ladakhi farmhouses following little streamlets and passing a pretty rural stupa. Sankar’s small, main prayer room features a portrait of Kushok Bakula Rinpoche (died 2004), Ladakh’s former head lama. His recently identified reincarnation will eventually move to the gilt-roofed photang (official residence) opposite the monastery.
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C
Community Centre
A visit to this thought-provoking community centre should be compulsory for all visitors to Ladakh! It campaigns to educate locals and foreigners alike about the remarkable balance of traditional Ladakhi society. Screenings of the excellent hour-long documentary Ancient Futures: Learning from Ladakh (admission by donation) at 3pm Monday to Saturday are followed by a discussion. Various other films screen at 11am.
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D
Shanti Stupa
Built by Japanese monks to promote world peace, this large, hilltop stupa has brightly coloured reliefs on its mid-levels and is topped by a spired white hemisphere (smoking is prohibited here). The greatest attraction is the stunning view of Leh. Ideally make the breathless 15-minute climb around 5.30pm when golden afternoon light still illuminates the city, while the steps up from Changspa are in cooling shadow.
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E
Donkey Sanctuary
Donkeys rescued from mistreatment or end-of-career abandonment retire to this semi-rural sanctuary. Bringing them carrots is a great excuse to wander around lovely, little visited upper Leh. Financial donations are also gratefully received.
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F
Chowkhang Gompa
Hidden in a large courtyard behind Main Bazaar, this small, 20th-century Chowkhang gompa has a distinctive gilt-roofed prayer room strung with hundreds of prayer flags. It’s the headquarters of the Ladakh Buddhist Association.
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Tsemo (Victory) Fort
A giddying 15-minute climb starting opposite Chenrezi Lakhang zigzags up to the ruinous medieval Tsemo (Victory) Fort, a structure that’s visible from virtually everywhere in Leh.
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Hall of Fame
About 1km beyond the airport terminal on the Spituk–Kargil road, this small museum has displays on Ladakhi culture and the war with Pakistan over the disputed Siachen Glacier.
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Men Tsee Khang Cultural Centre
The Buddhist Men Tsee Khang Cultural Centre was established to promote traditional Tibetan medicine and astrology. There's a small museum and you may be able to arrange a life horoscope.
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G
Tisserru Stupa
Just north of the Shanti Stupa are the ruins of the 11th century Tisserru Stupa made from mud bricks laid in geometric patterns over a core of poplar trunks.
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H
Gomang Stupa
Closer to Changspa is the striking 9th century Gomang Stupa, built in a similar style to the Bodhi stupa in Kathmandu and flanked by Buddhist rock carvings.
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Tisuru Stupa
The ruined 11th-century Tisuru Stupa is a bulky mudbrick structure that looks like a half-built ziggurat (stepped pyramid).
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J
Namgyal Tsemo Gompa
The 1430 mudbrick Namgyal Tsemo Gompa enshrines a three-storey-high Buddha.
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