Sarahan

Introducing Sarahan

The former summer capital of the Bushahr kingdom, Sarahan is dominated by the fabulous Bhimakali Temple (entry by donation; 7am-8pm), built from layers of stone and timber to absorb the force of earthquakes. There are two towers here, one built in the 12th century, and a newer tower from the 1920s containing a highly revered shrine to Bhimakali (the local version of Kali) beneath a beautiful silver-filigree canopy.

There are some strict entry rules. Male visitors must wear a cap (which can be borrowed inside the temple), shoes must be removed, smoking is banned, and cameras and leather goods like belts and wallets must be left with the guards. Behind the temple is a small display of ancient ceremonial horns, lamps and weaponry, and across the courtyard is the squat Lankra Vir Temple, where human sacrifices were carried out right up to the 18th century. The tradition lives on in a tamer form in the Astomi ritual during Dussehra , where a menagerie of animals is sacrificed to Bhimakali, including goats, chickens and buffaloes.

There are peaceful walks in the surrounding hills – stroll downhill to the Buddhist gompa in Gharat village, or gird yourself for the treks on the slopes of Bashal Peak. The flamboyant palace of the last maharaja of Bushahr is just behind the Bhimakali Temple.

Last updated: Sep 16, 2008