This is not a region for the faint-hearted. The barren, blindingly white land of Little Rann is nature at its harshest and most compelling, and home to India’s last remaining population of khur (Asiatic wild ass). There’s also a huge bird population, and the area is one of the few places in India where flamingos are known to breed naturally. Khurs and flamingos are protected in the 4953-sq-km Little Rann Sanctuary. The area is punctuated by desolate salt farms, where people eke out a living by pumping up ground water and extracting the salt. Heat mirages disturb the vast horizon – bushes and trees seem to hover above the surface.