Things to do in South Goa
-
Café Coffee Day
A pleasant enough place to escape the heat, this wannabe sleek joint offers a half-decent cappuccino (Rs44) along with a range of cakes, including the suitably ’70s Black Forest Gateau (Rs44), reminiscent of the era when Colva was still cool.
reviewed
-
Polem Beach
Goa’s southernmost beach, ranged along a beautiful small bay, is seldom-visited but makes a fine spot for a seaside stroll or a picnic on the deserted sands, with a beautiful view of a cluster of rocky islands out towards the horizon. Tourist development hasn’t yet made it as far as Polem, and the beach retains a decidedly local feel, with a handful of fishermen bringing in their catch to the northern end and nothing much else to keep you company except scuttling crabs and circling seabirds. For a fishy lunch so fresh it’s still dithering, stop at the Kamaxi Hotel among the palms, run by the eccentric local Laxaman Raikar. He also stocks Kingfisher, if you’re in need of…
reviewed
-
Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
About 9km east of Palolem, and a good day trip, is the beautiful, remote-feeling Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary, Goa’s second-largest sanctuary and easily its most accessible, if you’ve your own transport. Don’t expect to bump into its more exotic residents (including gaurs, sambars, leopards and spotted deer), but frogs, snakes, monkeys insects and blazingly plumed birds are in ample supply. Marked trails are hikable; set-off early for the best sighting prospects from one of the sanctuary’s two forest watchtowers – though heed the park warden’s recent warning: ‘Don’t climb too high, madam, for ladder is under repair.’
reviewed
-
Cabo da Rama Fort
A fort, named after the god Rama of the Hindu Ramayana epic fame, has occupied this bluff guarding the mouth of the Sal River for centuries, and came into Portuguese possession in 1763. Used as a prison until about half a century ago, there’s not much to see these days, though the drive through thick coconut forests is a real treat, and it’s without doubt a windswept and melancholy spot with a couple of cold-drinks stalls at the entrance, a luxury the poor Portuguese surely never had.
reviewed
-
Cola Beach
Faded signs from the main coastal road direct you down to hidden Cola Beach. Park, and hike down over the headland to get to this quiet, picturesque cove equipped with just one rustic beach-hut operation and a whole lot of blissful solitude.
reviewed
-
Utorda Beach
A clean, if slightly characterless stretch of beach, Utorda makes for a pleasant afternoon. Approach via sandbag stepping stones and rickety bridges over a series of fairly stagnant pools, and take your pick from a ragtag bunch of beach shacks, most of which come equipped with sunbeds. Like Arossim and Velsao further north, the pretty coast is offset by the hulking Zuari Agro chemical plant, but it’s nevertheless popular with holidaymakers from the surrounding swish resorts, and comes equipped with a functioning lifeguard.
reviewed
-
Varca Beach
Varca, a seemingly endless palm-backed strip of sand (punctuated here and there by the grounds of a luxury resort or a whitewashed Christian shrine), is quiet, calm and almost entirely hawker-free, making it easy to find a quiet spot all to yourself. Outside the resorts, one good access point is the portion known as Zalor Beach; follow signposts from Varca village, near the church. ‘You are being watched, ’ declares a final sign when you arrive, ‘No spitting or abusing children.’
reviewed
-
Velsao Beach
Velsao Beach makes for a quiet place to get away from it all in the company of just a lifeguard, a scattering of tourists and a flock or two of milling sea birds. The beach road travels through thick coconut groves past dozens of old bungalows, whilst the coastal road around this stretch makes for a delicious countryside drive, fringed with lily pad– studded lakes and paddy fields, and coconut groves stretching gently down to the sea.
reviewed
-
A
Tato
Down a small street east of the Municipal Gardens is this excellent, and highly fragrant, vegetarian restaurant popular with lunching locals. If you’re indecisive, order a thali (traditional South Indian all-you-can-eat meal), though the paneer chilli (spicy Indian cheese) is the manager’s personal favourite. It costs slightly more to eat upstairs in the icy AC, but the fan-cooled ground floor is perfectly fine too.
reviewed
-
Fernandes House
A kilometre east past the church, and open to the public, is the Fernandes House, whose original building dates back more than 500 years, while the Portuguese section was tacked on by the Fernandes family in 1821. The secret basement hideaway, full of gun holes and with an escape tunnel to the river, was used by the family to flee attackers. A minimum Rs100-per-visitor donation is expected.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Savoi Spice Plantation
Nearby, the 200-year-old Savoi Spice Plantation, whose motto is ‘Organic Since Origin’, is less touristy and elephant-free, but you’ll find a warm welcome from knowledgeable guides keen to walk you through the 40-hectare plantation. Local crafts are for sale, and you’ll be welcomed with fresh pomegranate juice, cardamom bananas and other organic treats.
reviewed
-
Betul
A small, sweet workaday village hugging the Sal River estuary, Betul will be your introduction to southern Goa if you’re heading down the coast via the Candolim ferry. There are few specific sights here, but it’s worth climbing up to the cross-topped Baradi Hillock viewpoint, especially for sunset, to see the glorious southern beach stretching off into the distance.
reviewed
-
B
Vernekar Restaurant
Vernekar Restaurant offers a mean tandoori chicken and the world’s finest aloo gobi (potato and cauliflower in a spicy masala sauce) for less than the price of a Coke at the hotel itself. Eat along with locals at one of only four plastic tables. It might be simple, but it serves up some of the very best, super-spicy grub in South Goa.
reviewed
-
C
Rajbag Beach
Quiet little Rajbag is these days dominated by the presence of the luxury Intercontinental resort, and most of its visitors are consequently hotel guests. It makes for a nice walk, however, from Patnem Beach to the north, clambering across the rocks along the way. Like many beaches in this area, though, beware a treacherous undertow when swimming.
reviewed
-
D
Faraway Cruises
Charter up and cruise the south Goan waters aboard the 18m wooden boat, Isla, which anchors down on the river at Rajbag and takes passengers up to Cabo da Rama Fort and back, with dolphin watching, lunch and swimming stops along the way. Special itineraries can be arranged for creating that ultimate romantic moment.
reviewed
-
E
Galgibag Beach
Gorgeous, deserted Galgibag is one of the last preserves of Goa’s endangered Olive Ridley turtles, and is a beautiful pine-backed stretch of deserted sands. Don’t come here to swim – undertows and currents are strong – but it’s unsurpassed for a quiet, nature-immersed walk.
reviewed
-
Tropical Spice Farm
One of the best spice plantations to visit is the Tropical Spice Farm, 5km northeast of Ponda. An entertaining 45-minute tour of the spice plantation, followed by a banana-leaf buffet lunch, is included in the price, and elephant rides (Rs 500) and bathings (Rs 600) are also available.
reviewed
-
Longuinho’s
Every day since 1950, quaint old Longhuino’s has been serving up tasty Indian and Chinese dishes, popular with locals and tourists alike. To thoroughly hark back to the ’50s, order the tongue roast for Rs80 (and that doesn’t mean a very spicy masala) and follow it up with a rum ball (Rs15).
reviewed
-
F
Longhuino’s
Since 1950, quaint old Longhuino’s has been serving up tasty Indian and Chinese dishes, popular with locals and tourists alike. To thoroughly hark back to the ’50s, order the tongue roast for Rs80 (and that doesn’t mean a very spicy masala) and follow it up with a rum ball (Rs15).
reviewed
-
G
Golden Heart Emporium
One of Goa’s very best bookshops, crammed with fiction, nonfiction, children’s books, and illustrated volumes on the state’s food, architecture and history. It’s situated down a little lane off Abade Faria Rd, on the right-hand side as you’re heading north.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Mallika
Mallika ‘Northern frontier’ fine-dining courtesy of the swish Kenilworth resort. Mallika’s the place to come for succulent kebabs, thick, fluffy tandoori-oven breads and other Punjabi- and Kashmiri-inspired delights.
reviewed
-
H
Gaylin
Hidden behind opaque glass doors decorated with dragon motifs, you’ll find generous, garlicky renditions of Chinese favourites dispense by friendly Darjeeling-derived owners, with recipes suitably spiced up to cater to resilient Indian palates.
reviewed
-
I
Casa Vaz Tea Shop
Run by a lovely local, this teensy tea joint on the edge of the Largo de Igreja district serves up the best caramelised-oniony bhaji-pau (bread roll with a small curry for dipping) in South Goa for an equally teensy Rs12.
reviewed
-
J
covered market
Long-term visitors will want to visit Margao for its markets - the covered market in the centre is one of the largest and most raucous in Goa, and there's a fish and produce market in a vast complex near the Kadamba bus stand.
reviewed
-
K
Swimming
The sleek Intercontinental complex, occupying vast landscaped grounds, allows nonresidents to use its pleasant outdoor pool for Rs 500 per day. High-priced snacks and drinks are available poolside, and at the swim-up bar.
reviewed