Things to do in Patna
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Golghar
Gandhi Maidan is a large park around which are a couple of sights. For a dome with a view, climb the landmark Golghar, which is a short walk west of the Gandhi Maidan. The British army built this massive and bulbous beehive of a granary in 1786, in the hope of avoiding a repeat of the vicious 1770 famine. Fortunately it was never required. Its dual spiralling staircases (250 steps each side), designed so that workers could climb up one side and down the other, lead to an unparalleled view of the city and Ganges.
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Patna Museum
Behind the impressive but decaying exterior, this museum houses a splendid collection of Mauryan and Gupta stone sculptures. There’s the usual collection of period weapons, including Humayun’s dagger, and a gallery of wonderful Rajasthani miniatures. In another gallery is a motley collection of stuffed animals, including tigers, a large gharial (crocodile), a bizarre three-eared and eight-legged goat kid and an Australian wombat! Upstairs in a locked gallery an extra Rs. 500 permits you a glimpse of a tiny casket that’s believed to contain some of Buddha’s ashes which were retrieved from Vaishali.
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Takshila
Hotel Chanakya in Birchand Patel Path has two good restaurants. One of them, the upstairs Takshila exudes the ambience of the North-West Frontier with its solid furniture and exposed brick decor. The speciality is meat-heavy Mughlai, Afghan and tandoori dishes. Vegetarians, try the Diwan-i-Handi, a creamy mixed-vegetable masala with fluffy butter naan (only a half portion is needed). You can order beer from the Madera Bar, or drink a well-cooled Kingfisher there with a ready supply of pappad and masala peanuts.
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Har Mandir Takht
Behind a grand gate and sheltered from the mayhem of Patna’s Chowk area is an important Sikh shrine. Its miniature marble domes, sweeping staircases and fine latticework mark the spot where Guru Gobind Singh, last of the 10 Sikh gurus, was born in 1666. It’s 11km east of Gandhi Maidan. There is a free guide to show you around and you can show your appreciation of his services by putting a contribution in the temple donations box.
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Qila House (Jalan Museum)
This intriguing and eclectic private museum overflows with antiques ranging from elaborate Mughal-period silverware and weaponry to the wooden bed of Napoleon III. Look for Marie Antoinette’s Sèvres porcelain and the Crown Derby dinner service printed bold and garish for the failing eyes of King George III. To visit, telephone ahead and provide a photocopy of your passport identity and visa pages.
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Khuda Bakhsh Oriental Library
This fascinating library, founded in 1900, contains a renowned collection of Arabic and Persian manuscripts, Mughal and Rajput paintings, and even the Quran inscribed in a book just 25mm wide. A significant exhibit is Nadir Shah’s sword – perhaps this was the one he raised at Sunehri Mosque, Delhi, in 1739 to order the massacre of the city’s residents.
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Ruins of Pataliputra
These historic ruins are unfortunately often flooded, but excavations of this ancient capital have found evidence from the periods of Ajatasatru (491-459 BC), Chandragupta (321-297 BC) and Ashoka (274-237 BC). The ruins/ponds are surrounded by well cared for gardens and a museum that details the site’s historic past.
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Bellpepper Restaurant
The Bellpepper is an intimate, contemporary restaurant popular for its tandoori dishes. The murg tikka lababdar (tandoori chicken basted with garlic, ginger, green chillies, and pistachio-and cashew-nut paste) is divine and shares the menu with Afghani dishes and Hyderabadi biryanis. No booze available.
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Ajanta
Come here for Patna’s best selection of Mithila paintings. Although most of the stock on display appears to be bronzes, the owner can show you a wide range of unmounted paintings starting from Rs. 300.
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Hotel Rajasthan
Children drag their parents here for 16 types of ice cream and single/double/triple sundaes. Good food but typically North Indian rather than Rajasthani. Try the almond soup.
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Basant Vihar
There’s nothing like a delicious dosa (paper-thin lentil-flour pancake) to tide over a lunch-hungry stomach. It’s the 1st-floor restaurant you need, not the ground-floor one.
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Samarat
Hotel Chanakya in Birchand Patel Path has two good restaurants. One of them, the downstairs Samarat is a multi-cuisine family restaurant.
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Bansi Vihar
Locals crowd into this spotless air-conditioned restaurant to enjoy cheap South Indian masala dosa, Chinese specials and friendly service.
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Garden Court Club
Few places are as enjoyable for lunch or dinner as this plant-filled, open-air rooftop terrace, serving Indian and Chinese dishes.
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Gandhi Museum
The small Gandhi Museum contains a pictorial history of the Mahatma’s life plus some of his meagre belongings.
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Mamta Bar and Restaurant
A pleasant place for a few beers and meal chaser. The food and service excel.
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