Things to do in Hyderabad & Secunderabad
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Chowmahalla Palace
In their latest act of architectural showmanship, the nizam family has sponsored a restoration of this dazzling palace – or, technically, four (char) palaces (mahalla). Begun in 1750, it was expanded over the next 100 years, absorbing Persian, Indo-Saracenic, Rajasthani and European styles. The southern courtyard has one mahal with period rooms that have been reconstructed with the nizams’ over-the-top furniture; another mahal with an exhibit on life in the zenana (women’s quarters) that includes bejewelled clothes, carpets and a bride palanquin; antique cars (one nizam allegedly used a Rolls Royce as a garbage can); and curiosities like elephant seats, a clock with a…
reviewed
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Waterfront
Just next to Eat Street, the outdoor deck here on the water (dinner service only) may have the best ambience in all of Hyderabad, with soft lighting overhead and the Buddha Statue, the entire Hussain Sagar and the Birla Mandir all twinkling in the distance. Eating indoors, alongside enormous picture windows, isn’t bad either. But it’s the Chinese, Indian and Thai food that’s to die for – their take on phad kea mou (noodles with tasty bok choy) is a must-eat.
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Birla Mandir
The Birla temple, constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces Kalabahad (Black Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain Sagar. Dedicated to Venkateshwara, it’s a popular Hindu pilgrimage centre and affords excellent views over the city, especially at sunset. The library here is worth a visit (open 4pm to 8pm).
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Eat Street
The food court has good coffee and fast food, and you’ll also find kids’ rides, boat launches to the Buddha Statue and tables on a waterfront boardwalk. It could be cheesy; instead it’s delightful.
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Hyderabad Perfumers
The family-run Hyderabad Perfumers, which has been in business for four generations, can whip something up for you on the spot.
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Paigah Tombs
The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. From 1797, the two families began inter-marrying as well, solidifying their close bond. The Paigahs’ necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble and lime stucco. The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are…
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AP State Museum
The continually renovated AP State Museum hosts a collection of important archaeological finds from the area, as well as a Buddhist sculpture gallery, with some relics of the Buddha and an exhibit on Andhra’s Buddhist history. The ever-expanding museum also has Jain and bronze sculpture galleries, a decorative-arts gallery, an exhibition of paintings by Lahore painter AR Chughtai, and an Egyptian mummy. The museum, like the gorgeous Legislative Assembly building down the road (both commissioned by the seventh nizam), is floodlit at night.
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Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum
Andhra Pradesh’s 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the north-eastern part of the state, comprise several million people. This museum, run by the government’s Tribal Welfare Department, exhibits photographs, dioramas of village life, musical instruments and some exquisite Naikpod masks. It’s basic, but you’ll get a glimpse into the cultures of these fringe peoples. There’s a small, interesting library here, and next door is the tiny Girijan Sales Depot, selling products made in tribal communities. Both are across from Chacha Nehru Park.
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Heh the Nizam’s Museum
The 16th-century Purani Haveli was home of the sixth nizam, Fath Jang Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869-1911), rumoured to have never worn the same thing twice. His 72m-long, two-storey wardrobe of Burmese teak is on display at this museum. Also on exhibit, in the palace’s former servants’ quarters, are personal effects of the seventh nizam and gifts from the Silver Jubilee celebration of his reign. The pieces are unbelievably lavish and include some exquisite artwork. The museum’s guides do an excellent job putting it all in context.
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Qutb Shahi Tombs
These graceful domed tombs sit serenely in landscaped gardens about 1.5km northwest of Golconda Fort’s Balahisar Gate. You could easily spend half a day here taking photos and wandering in and out of the mausoleums and various other structures. The upper level of Mohammed Quli’s tomb, reached via a narrow staircase, has good views of the area. The Qutb Shahi Tombs (Rs. 20) booklet is sold at the ticket counter.
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Ramoji Film City
Movie fans can’t miss the four-hour tour of Ramoji Film City, an 800-hectare movie-making complex for Telugu, Tamil and Hindi films. This place has everything – dance routines, gaudy fountains, flimsy film sets – and the whole thing wraps up with a Wild West song and dance number. Buses 205 and 206 from Koti Women’s College, north-east of Koti station, take an hour to get here.
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Kamat Andhra Meals
Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and finished off with a banana. Its sister restaurants in the same compound – Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant (North and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop – are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. It has no relation to Kamat Hotel.
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Hotel Shadab
One meal at Shadab and you’ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani and, during Ramadan, haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes.
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Vipassana International Meditation Centre
The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses at its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office. A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad on the first and last day of courses.
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Kamat Hotel
How much do people love Kamat Hotel? Words can’t say. Each Kamat is slightly different, but they’re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd. Meals (from Rs. 36) are reliably delish.
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Angeethi
The setting, designed to resemble an old Punjabi dhaba (snack bar), is over the top. But Angeethi does outstanding North Indian and Punjabi dishes, such as corn methi malai (sweet-corn stew with fenugreek leaves; Rs. 170).
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Minerva Coffee Shop
You can depend on this old-school cafe with contemporary decor for excellent meals, dosas (thin lentil pancake) and masala chai (Rs. 27). Both this and the Somajiguda branch are popular with friends catching up for lunch.
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Fusion 9
Soft lighting and cosy decor set off pan-fried Norwegian salmon (Rs. 750) or Brazilian tenderloin steak (Rs. 1200). There’s also (less expensive) Mexican, Thai, pizzas and veg dishes, and lots of imported liquor.
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Le Café d’Art
Beautiful young people come here come to smoke hookahs (Rs. 250) in antique-chic surrounds. We like it for the salads, sandwiches and espresso, though the service charge – for slow service – is a downer.
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Golconda Fort
Although most of this 16th-century fortress dates from the time of the Qutb Shah kings, its origins, as a mud fort, have been traced to the earlier reigns of the Yadavas and Kakatiyas.
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Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba
Always busy, Papaji’s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the guys making naan and throwing it in the tandoor while you wait for a table.
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Mozamjahi Market
A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son.
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Kalanjali
With a huge range of arts, crafts, fabrics and clothing, Kalanjali has higher prices than the bazaar, but you can get a feel for what things cost in a relaxed environment.
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Ofen
Two words: Linzer torte. Scrumptious desserts (even some vegan and sugar-free), fresh-baked bread and comfort food like sandwiches and pasta (Rs. 90 to Rs. 195).
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Health Museum
Located in the Public Gardens area is the Health Museum, where you’ll see a bizarre collection of medical and public-health paraphernalia.
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