Things to do in Snæfellsnes
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Bjarnarhöfn
On the northeastern edge of Berserkjahraun is the farmstead at Bjarnarhöfn – a must for every traveller with a taste for adventure (literally). Smell that? Yup, it’s rotting shark flesh – the farm is the region’s leading producer of hákarl (putrid shark meat), a traditional Icelandic dish. The on-site museum details the fragrant history of this culinary curiosity by displaying restored shark fishing boats, harpooning tools, and explaining the fermenting process. Each visit to the museum comes with a complimentary nibble of the delicacy in question. Some say it tastes like a sponge dipped in ammonia; we thought it was somewhat similar to old cheese. Before you le…
reviewed
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Library of Water
For relaxing views of the town and the bay, head up the hill to the Library of Water. Housed in the old municipal library, this hallowed space flooded by natural light features a permanent exhibit by noted American artist Roni Horn. Twenty-four glass pillars are scattered throughout the room, each one filled to the brim with locally sourced glacier water. Light is reflected and refracted through the aqueous tubes, and adjectives in both English and Icelandic are inscribed into the delicate floor. It’s the perfect place to curl up with your journal or play a game of chess (provided); just don’t forget to take off your shoes. Although the space is closed during the colder m…
reviewed
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Seatours
Seatours runs a variety of boat tours, and offers sea angling equipment rentals (Ikr6600). Our favourite trip is the ‘Unique Tour’ – a 2¼-hour boat ride (adult/under 16 years Ikr5950/free), which takes in postcard-worthy views of the bay and its myriad islands. Kodak moments abound as the boat passes colonies of puffins and eagles, and haunting basalt formations (keep your ears peeled for the gruesome legend of ‘hanging rock’!). Towards the end of the trip a net is lowered into the sea, and pretty soon there’s wiggly shellfish ready to be devoured raw (absolutely delish – we promise).
reviewed
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Stykkishólmskirkja
Looking decidedly out of place among the clutter of quaint maritime houses, Stykkishólmur’s futuristic church, Stykkishólmskirkja is a striking white structure with a sweeping bell tower that looks like a ship’s vent or a giant vertebra. The interior features hundreds of suspended lights and a large painting of the Mother and Child floating in the night sky. Enthusiasts of oddball architecture will be glad to know that there are heaps of funky churches throughout Iceland.
reviewed
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Volcano Museum
Get the back story on the neighbouring lava flows at the newly built Volcano Museum, housed in the town’s old cinema. The brainchild of vulcanologist Haraldur Sigurdsson, the museum features art and artefacts relating to the study of eruptions and their devastating effects. Haraldur himself is usually hangin’ around offering additional titbits from his 40 years in the field. Ask about the geologically themed day trips (eight hours; Ikr13,000), which circle the peninsula.
reviewed
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Gamla Rif
Swing by Gamla Rif for tasty coffee and cakes in blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Rif, a harbour village that makes Ólafsvík look like the big city. The owners, two fishermen’s wives, have perfected a variety of traditional snacks and dispense local travel tips with a smile. They make a mean fish soup (from their husbands’ daily catch) if you’re feeling extra-peckish.
reviewed
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Norska Húsið
One of the most interesting buildings (and the oldest) is the Norska Húsið, now the municipal museum. Built by trader Árni Þorlacius in 1832, the house has been skilfully restored and displays a wonderfully eclectic selection of local antiques. On the second floor you can see the typical layout of an upper-class home in 19th-century Iceland.
reviewed
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Einar með Öllu
Swing by this friendly pylsuvagninn (wiener wagon) for the best hot dogs in town. It’s a great spot to up your caloric intake, especially if you missed the ubiquitous pýlsur stands in Reykjavík. When you grab your grub to go, don’t forget to ask the cashier about the wagon’s punny name (it’s a great li’l play on words!)
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Narfeyrarstofa
Well, the jig is up – everyone’s figured out that this atmospheric joint is the best place in town for a bite, including all the tour groups. It’s definitely worth sampling the delicious assortment of cakes and burgers; just don’t stop by during prime lunching hours ’cause you won’t get a table!
reviewed
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Nesbraud
At the crossroads on the way out of town, this small bakery is a good choice for a budget-friendly breakfast or lunch. Stock up on sugary confections like kleinur (traditional twisty doughnuts) or ástar-pungur (literally ‘love balls’; fried balls of dough and raisins).
reviewed
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Fimm Fiskar
The Five Fishes is housed in a chalet-style abode just up the street from Narfeyrarstofa, it’s main competition. New management has kicked things up a notch, offering a colourful assortment of fresh fish from the pier. Dishes are on the small side, but get decent reviews nonetheless.
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Sjómannagarður
The only artificial sight in this area is Sjómannagarður, a small maritime museum with an adorable turf house, loads of old photos and plenty of local memorabilia, including a set of lifting stones once used to test the strength of prospective fishermen.
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Geothermal Swimming Pool
Try the tangle of water slides or one of the soothing hot pots at the town’s geothermal swimming pool located in the municipal sports complex. If you’re lucky, you might catch the local basketball team (Iceland’s best) practising their tricks.
reviewed
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Seatours
Seatours runs a variety of boat tours, and offers sea angling equipment rentals (Ikr6600). Our favourite trip is the ‘Unique Tour’ – a 2¼-hour boat ride (adult/under 16 years Ikr5950/free), which takes in postcard-worthy views of the bay and its myriad islands. Kodak moments abound as the boat passes colonies of puffins and eagles, and haunting basalt formations (keep your ears peeled for the gruesome legend of ‘hanging rock’!). Towards the end of the trip a net is lowered into the sea, and pretty soon there’s wiggly shellfish ready to be devoured raw (absolutely delish – we promise).
For a bit more luxury, try a private boat tour (from Ikr95,000; four perso…
reviewed
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Norska Húsið
Stykkishólmur’s quaint, maritime charm comes from the cluster of wooden warehouses, stores and homes orbiting the town’s harbour. Most date back about 150 years and many are still in use. One of the most interesting buildings (and the oldest) is the Norska Húsið, now the municipal museum. Built by trader Árni Þorlacius in 1832, the house has been skilfully restored and displays a wonderfully eclectic selection of local antiques. On the second floor you can see the typical layout of an upper-class home in 19th-century Iceland.
reviewed
