Things to do in Szombathely
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Bishop's Palace
Maulbertsch frescoes in the upstairs Reception Hall at the Bishop's Palace, built in 1783 and south of the cathedral, miraculously survived the air raids, but are not usually open to the public. You can, however, admire the murals of Roman ruins and gods painted in 1784 by István Dorffmeister in the Sala Terrena on the ground floor.
Other rooms contain photographs of the cathedral before and just after the bombing of WWII and the Diocesan Collection and Treasury (Egyházmegyei Gyüjtemény és Kincstár), including missals and Bibles from the 14th to 18th centuries, Gothic vestments, a beautiful 15th-century monstrance from Kőszeg and even a bejewelled replica of St Stephen's…
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Vas Museum Village
The Vas Museum Village, on the western bank of the fishing lake northwest of the Szombathely city centre, is an open-air museum with some 40 18th- and 19th-century porták (farmhouses) moved from more than two dozen villages in the Őrség region. They're arranged around a semicircular street, as was usual on the western border. The most interesting of these are the Croatian, German and 'fenced' houses.
Nettles from a strange plant called kővirózsa (stone rose) growing on the thatch were used to pierce little girls' ears.
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Szombathely Cathedral
Allied bombing in the final days of WWII did not spare the Zopf-style Szombathely Cathedral built in 1797. Designed by Melchior Hefele for Bishop Szily in 1791, the cathedral was once covered in stucco work and frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbertsch and supported by grand marble columns.
They're now gone, of course, though a couple of Maulbertsch originals and a glorious red-and-white marble pulpit remain, breaking the monotony of this sterile place, and there is a plaster sunburst of angels and putti (winged babies or cherubs) above the main altar.
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Smidt Museum
In a baroque mansion just south of the Bishop's Palace in Szombathely, the Smidt Museum contains the private collection of one Lajos Smidt, a pack-rat hospital superintendent who spent most of his adult life squirreling away antique weapons, furniture, fans, pipes, clocks, Roman coins and so on. None of it looks like it's worth very much, but the volume and zaniness of it all makes the museum worth a visit. (Keep an eye open for Franz Liszt's pocket watch.)
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Savaria Museum
The Savaria Museum fronting a little park east of Mártírok tere, is worth a short look around. The ground floor is devoted to highly decorative but practical items carved by 19th-century shepherds to while away the hours; the cellar is full of Roman altars, stone torsos and blue-glass vials found at Savaria excavation sites. There's a local history exhibit on the 1st floor and a collection devoted to the Romanesque church at Ják.
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Garden of Ruins
Szombathely has some of the most important Roman ruins in Hungary, and many of them are on display in the so-called Garden of Ruins, containing a wealth of Savaria relics excavated here since 1938. Don't miss the beautiful mosaics of plants and geometrical designs on the floor of what was St Quirinus Basilica in the 4th century. There are also remains of Roman road markers, a customs house, shops and the medieval castle walls.
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Iseum
The Iseum, south of Fő tér, is part of a grand 2nd-century complex of two temples dedicated to the Egyptian goddess Isis by Roman legionnaires. When the smaller temple was excavated in the 1950s, the city decided to reconstruct it - with cement blocks. The result is grotesque, though it is said to be undergoing a facelift. The frieze on the sacrificial altar depicts Isis riding the dog Sirius.
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synagogue
The lovely twin-towered Moorish building across the street from the Szombathely Gallery is the former synagogue designed in 1881 by the Viennese architect Ludwig Schöne. Today it houses a music school and the attached Béla Bartók Concert Hall. A plaque marks the spot from where '4228 of our Jewish brothers and sisters were deported to Auschwitz on 4 July 1944'.
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Béla Bartók Concert Hall
Szombathely has devoted a lot of attention to music ever since Bishop Szily engaged the services of full-time musicians to perform at church functions - not services. One important venue is the Béla Bartók Concert Hall, attached to the former synagogue, where the Savaria Symphony Orchestra performs throughout the year.
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Pityer
One and a half kilometres southwest of Fő tér, this traditional halászcsárda (restaurant serving fish dishes) is worth the trip if you're in search of fish. Portions are large and the surrounds are quite atmospheric.
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ticket office
For tickets to most events head to the ticket office just south of the old Savaria Hotel. Enter from Mártírok tere. An excellent source of information is the free biweekly entertainment guide Szombathelyi Est.
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Gödör
This restaurant-cum-wine cellar is affiliated with the Jégverem in Sopron and as such caters to 'greedy-guts' types. Portions are massive, dishes relatively authentic and prices reasonable. You really can't go wrong here.
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Paradicsom
The 'Tomato' is an above-average Italian restaurant with a good vegetarian selection. The pizza and pasta are quite good. Belsö Uránia Udvar can be accessed from Mártírok tére or Fő tér 20.
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Tófürdő swimming complex
The huge Tófürdő swimming complex, close to the rowing and fishing lakes northwest of Szombathely's city centre along Kenderesi utca has huge pools and a bunch of slides for both big and small kids.
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Banya Café Bar
This impressive basement (bánya means 'mine'), a former workers' pub, has been dragged into the 21st century and wouldn't look out of place in London. There are parties and live music on weekends.
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House of Arts
House of Arts is another place in Szombathely which has devoted a lot of attention to music ever since Bishop Szily engaged the services of full-time musicians to perform at church functions - not services.
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Royal Söröző
A popular pub with sidewalk tables on the northeastern side of Fő tér, opposite the House of Arts. What's more, it has Internet access (Ft130 per half-hour).
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Claudia
Excellent cakes and ice cream are served here, and it's a great place to relax, especially in summer when tables spill out onto the pavement.
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Art Café
This sedate café-pub on the main square attracts watchers and talkers, not party people. Come here for a quiet drink.
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thermal baths and indoor pools
Szombathely's thermal baths and indoor pools are just to the south of the city. Admission is cheaper the later you enter.
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Café Móló
This modern, upbeat place opposite the less-than-appetising Iseum should be your first choice if you just want a pizza.
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House of Culture & Sport
An important venue for full-time musicians to perform is the ugly House of Culture & Sport dating from the 1960s.
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Murphy's Mojo Club
This bar is not exactly in the city centre, but worth the trip for the music (canned). It also serves reliable food.
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Semiramis
Semiramis easily fits the bill of a downtown Manhattan café. It probably serves the best coffee in Szombathely.
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Menza
This modern take on a workers' (or student) canteen serves basic but filling meals at remarkably low prices.
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