Sights in Szentendre
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Margit Kovács Ceramic Collection
If you descend Görög utca and turn south onto Vastagh György utca, you’ll reach the Margit Kovács Ceramic Collection, Szentendre’s biggest draw. Kovács (1902–77) was a ceramicist who combined Hungarian folk, religious and modern themes to create elongated, Gothiclike figures. Some of her works are overly sentimental, but many are very powerful, especially the later ones in which she became obsessed with mortality.
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Belgrade Cathedral
The red spire of Belgrade Cathedral, seat of the Serbian Orthodox bishop in Hungary and built in 1764, rises from within a walled courtyard to the north of Castle Hill. One of the church outbuildings contains the Serbian Ecclesiastical Art Collection, a treasure-trove of icons, vestments, and church plate in precious metals (open at the same times as the church).
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ArtMill
Housed in a 19th-century industrial complex at the northern end of Bogdányi utca is the ArtMill, Szentendre's bid to recapture its past as a serious centre for artists and the arts. Its extensive exhibition space is used for paintings, sculpture, graphics and applied arts, and its grounds are possibly the quietest spot in the touristy centre.
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Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum
The Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum, 3km northwest of the centre of Szentendre and accessible by bus from bay 7 at the main bus station, is Hungary’s most ambitious open-air folk museum, with farmhouses, churches, bell towers, mills and so on set up in five regional units. Craftspeople and artisans do their thing on Sundays and holidays.
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Blagoveštenska Church
Across Fő tér to the northeast is the Serbian Orthodox Blagoveštenska Church, built in 1754. The church, with fine baroque and rococo elements, hardly looks ‘eastern’ from the outside, but once you step inside, the ornate iconostasis and elaborate 18th-century furnishings give the game away.
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Anna-Ámos Collection
Bogdányi utca, Szentendre's busiest pedestrian street, leads north from Fő tér, where you'll find the excellent Anna-Ámos Collection, displaying the symbolist paintings of husband-and-wife team Margit Anna and Imre Ámos.
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Požarevačka Church
A good starting point on your tour of Szentendre is the Požarevačka Church, which you'll pass on the way from the stations. Dedicated in 1763, this Serbian Orthodox church has a lovely iconostasis inside (1742).
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Memorial Cross
On Fő tér, the colourful heart of Szentendre surrounded by 18th- and 19th-century burghers' houses, you'll find the Memorial Cross, an iron cross dating from 1763 decorated with icons on a marble base.
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Serbian Ecclesiastical Art Collection
One of the Belgrade Cathedral outbuildings contains the Serbian Ecclesiastical Art Collection, a treasure-trove of icons, vestments, and church plate in precious metals (open at the same times as the church).
reviewed
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Ferenczy Museum
The Ferenczy Museum is devoted to Károly Ferenczy (1862-1917), the father of plein-air painting in Hungary, and his three children: a painter, a sculptor and a weaver.
reviewed
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Parish Church of St John
The Parish Church of St John at Castle Hill (Vár-domb), from where you can enjoy views of the town, is all that's left of the site of a fortress built in the Middle Ages.
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Czóbel Museum
The Czóbel Museum contains the works of the impressionist Béla Czóbel (1883-1976), a friend of Pablo Picasso and student of Henri Matisse.
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Sts Peter and Paul Church
The Sts Peter and Paul Church began life as the Čiprovačka Orthodox Church in 1753, but was later taken over by Dalmatian Catholics.
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Pap Island
Pap Island is Szentendre's playground and has a grassy strand for sunbathing, a swimming pool, and tennis courts and rowing boats for hire.
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Nemzeti Wine Museum
The Nemzeti Wine Museum traces the development of wine-making in Hungary and charges quite a bit more to sample various vintages.
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Kmetty Museum
The Kmetty Museum on the southwestern side of Fő tér displays the work of the cubist János Kmetty (1889-1975).
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Barcsay Collection
The Barcsay Collection contains the work of one of the founders of Szentendre's art colony, Jenő Barcsay (1900-88).
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Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum
The Hungarian Open-Air Ethnographical Museum, 3km northwest of the centre of Szentendre and accessible by bus from bay 7 at the main bus station, is Hungary’s most ambitious open-air folk museum, with farmhouses, churches, bell towers, mills and so on set up in five regional units. Craftspeople and artisans do their thing on Sundays and holidays.
reviewed