Things to do in Esztergom
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Esztergom Basilica
The Esztergom Basilica, the largest church in Hungary, is on Castle Hill, measuring 117m long and 47m wide. Its 72m-high central dome can be seen for many kilometres around. The building of the present neoclassical church was begun in 1822 on the site of a 12th-century one destroyed by the Turks. József Hild, who designed the cathedral at Eger, was involved in the final stages, and the basilica was consecrated in 1856 with a sung Mass composed by Franz Liszt.
The red-and-white marble Bakócz Chapel on the south side of the basilica is a splendid example of Italian Renaissance stone-carving and sculpture. It was commissioned by Archbishop Tamás Bakócz who, having failed in…
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Christian Museum
Just north of the Italianate Watertown Parish Church (Víziváros plébániatemplom; 1738), which is vaguely reminiscent of the glorious Minorite church in Eger, is the former Bishop's Palace. Today it houses the Christian Museum - the finest collection of medieval religious art in Hungary and one of the best museums in the country.
Established by Archbishop János Simor in 1875, it contains Hungarian Gothic triptychs and altarpieces; later works by German, Dutch and Italian masters; tapestries; and what is arguably the most beautiful object in the nation: the sublime Holy Sepulchre of Garamszentbenedek (1480), a sort of wheeled cart in the shape of a cathedral, with rich…
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Castle Museum
The small Castle Museum at the southern end of Castle Hill is housed in the former Royal Palace, which was built mostly by French architects under Béla III (r 1172-96) during Esztergom's golden age. The palace was the king's residence until the capital was relocated to Buda - at which time the archbishop moved in. Most of the palace was destroyed and covered with earth for defensive purposes under the Turks; excavations only began in the 1930s.
The museum concentrates on archaeological finds from the town and its surrounding area, the majority of which is pottery dating from the 11th century onwards. Other points of interest include some of the basilica's original ornate…
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Víziváros
Below Castle Hill on the banks of the Little Danube is Víziváros, the colourful 'Watertown' district of pastel town houses, churches and museums. The fastest way to get there is to walk down steep Macskaút, which can be accessed from just behind the Esztergom Basilica. An easier route is to cross the Royal Palace's drawbridge, walk down the grassy hill to Batthyány Lajos utca and then turn west onto Pázmány Péter utca.
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Csülök Csárda
The 'Pork Knuckle Inn' - guess the speciality here - is a charming eatery that is popular with visitors and locals alike. It serves up good home cooking (try the bean soup), the portions are huge and we remember a delightful winter Sunday in Esztergom long ago that began at the Christian Museum and ended with a Dreher-fuelled porky lunch here. Highly recommended.
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Technology & Science House
The so-called Technology & Science House built in 1888, once served as a synagogue for Esztergom's Jewish community, the oldest in Hungary, and now contains a regional government office. It was designed in Moorish Romantic style by Lipót Baumhorn, the master architect who was also responsible for the synagogues in Szeged, Szolnok and Gyöngyös.
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Bálint Balassi Museum
The Bálint Balassi Museum, in an 18th-century baroque building, has objects of local interest, with much emphasis on the churches and monasteries of medieval Esztergom. The museum is named in honour of the general and lyric poet who was killed during an unsuccessful attempt to retake Esztergom Castle from the Turks in 1594.
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Szalma Csárda
The 'Thatched Inn' is done up in HHK (High Hungarian Kitsch) décor - lots of chillies and plates on the walls - and very popular with tourists. Opposite the Mahart pier, it may be just the place for a final provincial meal before sailing back to Budapest.
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Mindszenty Memorial Museum
Northeast of the Esztergom Basilica, in the former Seminary building (Szeminárium), is the new Mindszenty Memorial Museum, which examines the life and times of one of Hungary's most controversial figures.
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Termál Sörkert
The 'Thermal Beer Garden' in the outdoor thermal pool grounds is a great place to be on a balmy summer evening; its outdoor seating area is jam-packed with a young crowd trying to be heard over the music.
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Múzeumkert
This restaurant-cum-cocktail lounge called the 'Museum Garden' also serves some of the best cakes and pastries in Esztergom. It attracts a mixed crowd of tea drinkers and boozers.
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Anonim
Housed in an attractive old townhouse in Watertown, 'Anonymous' serves small but excellent and very tasty dishes. The garden seating is a real plus in the warmer months.
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Danube Museum
The Danube Museum has displays on - you guessed it - Hungary's mightiest river and life on it. With all the hands-on exhibits, it's a great place for kids.
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Café Trafó
This little café is a leafy oasis with modern décor; a great place to take a breather, sit back and relax. We could spend all day here.
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Gambrinus Music Pub
If you want to kick your heels up, head for this popular pub-bar with the retro Hungarian look (curios and 'antiqued' stuff) and canned music.
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Wilkinson Pub
This friendly pub should be your first choice for a sundowner in Esztergom. It has a terrace overlooking busy Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca.
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Indoor Pool
Just east of the Little Danube in Esztergom is the indoor pool, which can be used throughout the year.
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Tropical Café
This pub by the bus station has cheap beer and is popular with students from the nearby trade school.
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Outdoor Thermal Pools
Just east of the Little Danube in Esztergom are outdoor thermal pools and stretches of grass 'beach'.
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Match
In the centre of Esztergom is this branch of the supermarket chain.
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Outdoor Thermal Pools
Just east of the Little Danube in Esztergom are outdoor thermal pools and stretches of grass 'beach'.
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