Things to do in Szeged
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Ferenc Móra Museum
Oskola utca, one of the city's oldest streets, leads from Dóm tér to Roosevelt tér and the Palace of Education (1896) at No 1-3, which now houses the Ferenc Móra Museum. The museum's strength lies in its colourful collection of folk art from Csongrád County, bearing intelligent descriptions in several languages.
The unique exhibit of 7th-century Avar finds of delicate gold work and other art pieces showcases the sophistication and art appreciation of these often forgotten people while another room is given over to an even more obscure group, the Sarmatians. Originating in present-day Iran, these people moved to the plain as allies of the Romans; construction of the n…
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New Synagogue
For many people, Szeged's most compelling sight is the Hungarian Art Nouveau New Synagogue, which was designed by Lipót Baumhorn in 1903. It is the most beautiful Jewish house of worship in Hungary and still very much in use.
If the grace and enormous size of the exterior don't impress you, the blue-and-gold interior will. The cupola, decorated with stars and flowers (representing Infinity and Faith), appears to float skyward, and the tabernacle of carved acacia wood and metal fittings is a masterpiece.
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Attila József Science University
Further south of the city centre, Kárász utca meets Dugonics tér, site of the Attila József Science University, named after its most famous alumnus. József (1905-37), a much loved poet, was actually expelled from here in 1924 for writing the verse 'I have no father and I have no mother/I have no God and I have no country' during the ultraconservative rule of Admiral Miklós Horthy. A music fountain in the square plays at irregular intervals throughout the day.
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National Pantheon
Dóm tér contains Szeged's most important monuments and is the centre of events during the annual summer festival. The National Pantheon - statues and reliefs of 80 notables running along an arcade around three sides of the square - is a crash course in Hungarian art, literature, culture and history. Even the Scotsman Adam Clark, who supervised the building of Budapest's Chain Bridge, wins accolades, but you'll look forever for any sign of a woman.
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Town Hall
Széchenyi tér, a square so large it's a park, houses the neobaroque town hall. With its graceful tower and colourful tiled roof, the town hall dominates the square, while statues of Lajos Tisza, István Széchenyi and the kubikosok (navvies) who helped regulate the Tisza River take pride of place under the chestnut trees.
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Heroes' Gate
Heroes' Gate was erected in 1936 in honour of Horthy's White Guards, who were responsible for 'cleansing' the nation of 'Reds' after the ill-fated Republic of Councils in 1919. The fascistic murals have disappeared (replaced with some 'nice' but amateurish ones), but the brutish sculptures are still a sight to behold.
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Pick & Paprika Museum
If you'd like to know more about the making of Szeged's famed salami - from hoof to shrink-wrap - the Pick & Paprika Museum can oblige, and if that doesn't satisfy your taste buds, there's plenty of paprika to burn them into submission. Pick salami can be purchased from the Pick shop next to the museum.
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Votive Church
The twin-towered Votive Church is a disproportionate brown brick monstrosity that was pledged after the flood in 1879 but not completed until 1930. The interior borders on gaudy but it's still an impressive achievement; the huge nave and gigantic organ (11,500 pipes in all) dominate the entire scene.
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Régi Hídhoz
Some believe Hídhoz serves comparable fish dishes to its neighbour Halászcsárda, a Szeged institution that knows how to prepare the best fish in town, which is saying something. The atmosphere here is, however, more relaxed and family-orientated.
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Virág
A café since 1922, Virág serves possibly the best ice cream in town, and its cakes aren't bad either. Take a seat in its traditional booths outside on large Klauzál tér, or directly opposite in its modern counterpart, Kis Virág.
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Halászcsárda
Halászcsárda is a Szeged institution that knows how to prepare the best fish in town, including szegedi halászlé. On hot summer days its large terrace near the Tisza is thankfully tree-shaded.
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Soda Salt Lake
About 10km west of town in the suburb of Sziksósfürdő is the thermal Soda Salt Lake. Alongside a conventional strand, swimming pool and rowing boats, it also has a nudist beach and camp site.
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Kiskőrösy
Housed in a traditional fisherman's cottage on the banks of the Tisza a few kilometres east of the centre, this excellent fish restaurant is an atmospheric place to dine. Check with Tourinform on its opening times.
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Serbian Orthodox Church
The Serbian Orthodox church in Dóm tér, dating from 1778, has a fantastic iconostasis: a central gold 'tree', with 60 icons hanging from its 'branches'. You'll find the key at Somogyi utca 3 (flat I/5).
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Reök Palace
The Reök Palace is a mind-blowing green and lilac Art Nouveau structure built in 1907 that looks like an aquarium decoration. Sadly, it's been left to the elements and is coming off second-best.
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John Bull Pub
This pub does a grand job of 'English Pub' imitation (minus the 11 o'clock closing!!), with carpets, proper pints and bar stools. Its secluded garden is a welcome respite from the centre.
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Synagogue
There are a few buildings of interest in Szeged's former Jewish quarter, including the remains of an old synagogue, now a private house, just south of Széchenyi tér.
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Numero Uno Pizza
We can't guarantee that this simple pizzeria is number one in the city but it's certainly up there with the best. Its inner-courtyard garden is also fine for a quiet drink.
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Organ Concerts
There are free organ concerts in the New Synagogue from late March to mid-September; it's a good chance to take in the splendour of the building without having to pay.
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Grand Café
For coffee, cake and a bit of peace and quiet (except when it's hosting film nights), head to this light-hearted café on the 2nd floor of an office block.
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SZOTE Club
SZOTE Club is a student haunt without compare in Szeged; it is fairly grungy, hosts a mix of DJs and live acts, and is packed to the gunnels with students.
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JATE Klub
JATE Klub is a student haunt without compare in Szeged; it is fairly grungy, hosts a mix of DJs and live acts, and is packed to the gunnels with students.
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Demetrius Tower
The Romanesque Demetrius Tower in Dóm tér is the city's oldest structure, and is all that remains of a church erected here in the 12th century.
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Fruit & Vegetable Market
Szeged has a big fruit & vegetable market on Mars tér, site of the notorious Star Prison for political prisoners early in the 1950s.
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Old Synagogue
There are a few buildings of interest in Szeged's former Jewish quarter, including the neoclassical Old Synagogue, built in 1843.
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