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All Saints' Church
The suburb of Budaiváros to the northeast of Pécs' town centre is where most Hungarians settled after the Turks banned them from living within the city walls. The centre of this community was the All Saints' Church. Originally built in the 12th century, it was reconstructed in Gothic style 200 years later.
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barbican
To the west and north of Dóm tér is a long stretch of the old city wall that enclosed an area far too large to defend properly. The circular barbican, the only stone bastion to survive in Pécs, dates from the late 15th century and was restored in the 1970s.
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Basilica of St Peter
The foundations of the four-towered Basilica of St Peter - or simply székesegyház (cathedral) - date back to the 11th century and the side chapels are from the 1300s. But most of what you see today of the neo-Romanesque structure is the result of renovations carried out in 1881. Guided tours are conducted in Hungarian and German and cost around Ft2000 .
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Bishop's Palace
The Bishop's Palace, dating to 1770, to the southwest of Dóm tér is only open to groups (and even then, rarely), but have a look at the curious statue of Franz Liszt (Imre Varga; 1983), peering over from a balcony.
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Church of the Good Samaritan
The rather gloomy Church of the Good Samaritan is behind the porcelain Zsolnay Fountain to the southeast of Széchenyi tér.
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City History Museum
You'll find the excellent City History Museum if you turn south after passing the Church of St Stephen (Szent István-templom; Király utca 44/a) on Király utca.
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Csontváry Museum
The Csontváry Museum exhibits the major works of Tivadar Kosztka Csontváry (1853-1919), a unique symbolist painter whose tragic life is sometimes compared with that of Vincent van Gogh, who was born in the same year. Many of Csontváry's oversized canvases are masterpieces, especially Storm on the Great Hortobágy (1903), Solitary Cedar (1907) and Baalbeck (1906), an artistic search for a larger identity through religious and historical themes.
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early Christian tomb chapel
The early Christian tomb chapel, across Janus Pannonius utca, dates from about AD 350 and has frescoes of Adam and Eve, and Daniel in the lion's den.
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Endre Nemes Museum
Káptalan utca, running east from Dóm tér to Hunyadi János út, contains a plethora of museums, all of them in listed buildings. The entry fee to the Ferenc Martyn Museum includes entry to the Endre Nemes Museum, which is devoted to paintings by the surrealist Endre Nemes (1908-85). In a separate pavilion behind it is Erzsébet Schaár's Utca (also included in the Martyn Museum ticket), a complete artistic environment in which the sculptor set her whole life in stone.
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Ethnography Museum
The Ethnography Museum to the southeast of the Pasha Hassan Jakovali Mosque (southwest of Pécs' inner town), showcases ethnic Hungarian, German and South Slav folk art in the region.
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Ferenc Martyn Museum
Káptalan utca, running east from Dóm tér to Hunyadi János út, contains a plethora of museums, all of them in listed buildings. The Ferenc Martyn Museum displays works by the Pécs-born painter and sculptor (1899-1986) and sponsors special exhibits of local interest.
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Garden of Ruins
You can get a taste of the Mecsek Hills by walking northeast from the centre of Pécs to Tettye and the Garden of Ruins, what's left of a bishop's summer residence built early in the 16th century and later used by Turkish dervishes as a monastery.
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Havi-hegy Chapel
To the northeast of Pécs' town centre up on a hill is Havi-hegy Chapel, built in 1691 by the faithful after the town was spared the plague. The church is an important city landmark, and offers wonderful views of the inner town and the narrow streets and old houses of the Tettye Valley.
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Janus Pannonius Archaeology Museum
The Janus Pannonius Archaeology Museum, in the 17th-century home of a janissary commander just behind the Mosque Church in Széchenyi tér, traces the history of Baranya County up to the time of Árpád. It also contains many examples of Roman stonework from Pannonia, a model of St Bertalan's Church and medieval porcelain.
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Jug Mausoleum
The entrance to the Jug Mausoleum, a 4th-century Roman tomb whose name comes from a painting of a large drinking vessel with vines found here is on the southern side of the baroque Ecclesiastical Archives (Egyházi levéltár) in Dóm tér.
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Marcipán Museum
Just past the Pécs National Theatre on Király utca, you'll run into the Marcipán Museum, where you can make your own delectable delight or buy one from the museum shop.
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Misina Peak
To the northwest of Pécs, up Fenyves sor and past the zoo, a winding road leads to Misina Peak and a TV tower, an impressive 194m structure with a viewing platform and café-bar. But these are just the foothills: from here, trails lead to the lovely towns of Orfű and Abaliget, on a plateau 15km and 20km to the northwest, respectively; and to Southern Transdanubia's highest peak, Zengő-hegy (682m).
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Modern Hungarian Art Gallery
The Modern Hungarian Art Gallery in Káptalan utca is the best place to get an overview of art in Hungary between 1850 and today. For art up to 1950 pay special attention to the works of Simon Hollósy, József Rippl-Rónai and Ödön Márffy. For more abstract and constructionist art, watch out for the names András Mengyár, Tamás Hencze, Béla Uitz and Gábor Dienes. The Péter Székely Gallery behind the museum has large stone and wood sculptures.
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Mosque Church
This lovely square of mostly baroque buildings framed by the Mecsek Hills is where you should start a walking tour of Pécs. Dominating the square - indeed, the very symbol of the city - is the former Pasha Gazi Kassim Mosque. Today it's the Inner Town Parish Church (Belvárosi plébánia templom), more commonly known as the Mosque Church. It is the largest building still standing in Hungary from the time of the Turkish occupation.
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Pasha Hassan Jakovali Mosque
Southwest of Pécs' inner town and opposite the Pátria hotel is the Pasha Hassan Jakovali Mosque, wedged between a trade school and a hospital. The 16th-century mosque - complete with minaret - is the most intact of any Turkish structure in Hungary and contains a small museum of Ottoman objets d'art .
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Pasha Memi Baths (Ruins)
One of Pécs' most enjoyable pedestrian streets, Ferencesek utcája, runs east from Rákóczi út to Széchenyi tér, where Király utca also becomes pedestrian. You'll pass the ruins of the 16th-century Pasha Memi Baths, three beautiful old churches and, on Király utca, the neo-rococo Pécs National Theatre (Király utca).
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Pécs National Theatre
One of Pécs' most enjoyable pedestrian streets, Ferencesek utcája, runs east from Rákóczi út to Széchenyi tér, where Király utca also becomes pedestrian. You'll pass the ruins of the 16th-century Pasha Memi Baths (Memi pasa fürdője), three beautiful old churches and, on Király utca, the neo-rococo Pécs National Theatre.
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Roman tomb sites
Two Roman tomb sites containing 110 graves, are a little further south of Dóm tér. The entire area, which so far consists of 16 burial chambers and several hundred graves, is now a designated Unesco site.
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Sunday flea market
The Sunday flea market, about 3km southwest of the inner town on Megyeri út, attracts people from the countryside, especially on the first Sunday of the month.
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synagogue
The synagogue was built in the Romantic style in 1869, and a fact sheet, available in 11 languages, explains the history of the building and the city's Jewish population. Shortly after the fascist Hungarian government established a ghetto in Pécs in May 1944, most of the city's 3000 Jews were deported to the Nazi death camps; only 150 Jews now live in the city.
