Shopping in Hungary
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Nagycsarnok
The ‘Great Market’ is Budapest’s biggest food market but, because it has been attracting tourists ever since it was renovated for the millecentenary in 1996, it now has dozens of stalls on the 1st floor selling Hungarian folk costumes, dolls, painted eggs, embroidered tablecloths, carved hunting knives and so on. At the same time, gourmets will appreciate the Hungarian and other treats available on the ground floor at a fraction of what they would cost in the shops on nearby Váci utca – shrink-wrapped and potted foie gras and goose-liver pâté (2600/4900Ft for 100/200g), a good selection of dried mushrooms, garlands of dried paprika (600Ft to 800Ft), souvenir sacks and…
reviewed
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Ecseri Piac
Often just called the piac (market), this is one of the biggest flea markets in central Europe, selling everything from antique jewellery and Soviet army watches to Fred Astaire–style top hats. Saturday is said to be the best day to go; dealers get there early to search for those proverbial diamonds amidst the rust. Take bus 54 from Boráros tér in Pest or, for a quicker journey, the red-numbered express bus 84E, 89E or 94E from the Határ utca stop on the M3 metro line farther afield in Pest and get off at the Fiume utca stop. Follow the crowds over the pedestrian bridge.
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Báv
This chain of pawn and secondhand shops, with a number of branches around town, is always a fun place to comb for trinkets and treasures, especially if you don’t have time to get to the Ecseri or City Park flea markets. Check out this branch for chinaware, textiles and furniture. Other stores include the Belváros branch for knick-knacks, porcelain, glassware and artwork and the Buda branch for jewellery, lamps and fine porcelain.
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Chinese Market
The popular name for what is actually called Józsefvárosi Piac (Józsefváros Market), this is the place to come if you don’t feel like doing the laundry and want to replace the wardrobe cheaply. It’s chock-a-block with clothing made in China and Vietnam at ultra-bargain prices (not to mention cosmetics, cigarettes and liquor of dubious provenance). There are some decent (read authentic) Asian food stalls here too, especially the noodle ones.
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Folkart Centrum
Also called ‘Népművészet’, this is a large shop where everything Magyar – whether made here or in China – is available, from embroidered waistcoats and tablecloths to painted eggs and plates. The staff are helpful and will advise. A similar place but even bigger is the Folkart Kézművészház further north on the same street.
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Timpanon
This seldom-noticed shop in Óbuda sells antique Hungarian folk art of every shape and size: mangle boards, woodcarvings, chests etc. But don't expect any bargains. An early 19th-century tulipán láda (trousseau chest with tulips painted on it) from the Felvidék area of Slovakia will cost you around 130,000Ft. There's a Buda branch called Almárium.
reviewed
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Lekvárium
This little speciality shop stocks homemade jams and bottled fruit and honey, wine from the Siklós and Villány regions of southern Hungary and fruit-flavoured brandies. It is the place to visit to pick up a jar or two of Hungary's greatest edible contribution to humanity - traditionally made lekvár (fruit jam), especially the apricot variety.
reviewed
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Herend
For both contemporary and traditional fine porcelain, there is no other place to go but Herend, Hungary’s answer to Wedgwood. Among the most popular motifs produced by the company is the Victoria pattern of butterflies and wildflowers designed for the lemon-lipped British queen during the mid- 19th century. There’s also a more central Belváros branch of this Hungarian icon.
reviewed
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Mountex
This huge (though somewhat far-flung) emporium on two levels with branches throughout the city carries all the gear you’ll need for camping, hiking, trekking and climbing. In fact, there’s a climbing wall (open from 8am to 10pm Monday to Friday and 10am to 8pm Saturday and Sunday) round the corner should you want to get in a little practice while shopping.
reviewed
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Almárium
This wonderful shop near the entrance to the tunnel under Castle Hill sells antique and country Hungarian folk art of every shape and size: mangle boards, woodcarvings, chests etc. But don’t expect any bargains. An early 19th-century tulipán láda (trousseau chest with tulips painted on it) from Transylvania will cost you as much as 150,000Ft.
reviewed
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Nádortex
Goose-feather or down products such as pillows (from 10,800Ft) or duvets (comforters; from 21,600Ft) are of excellent quality in Hungary and a highly recommended purchase. Nádortex, small and monolingual but reliable, has some of the best prices; a pure down ‘summer’ (ie 500g per sq metre) measuring 200cm x 220cm costs 38,500Ft.
reviewed
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Byblos
Anchor tenant of the pedestrianised thoroughfare that so desperately wants to be called ‘Fashion Street’, this ultraelegant establishment owned by Hungarian-American movie mogul Andrew G Vajna has both casual wear and formal attire for both men and women from international designers as well as its own youth-oriented Byblos Blu line.
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Balogh Kestyű Üzlet
If he can have a pair of bespoke shoes from Vass, why can’t she have a pair of custom-made gloves lined with cashmere? You’ll get them here at the ‘Balogh Gloves Shop’ – and there’s any number of materials to choose from for men too, including shearling-lined leather gloves.
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Zsolnay
For both contemporary and traditional fine porcelain from Pécs, check out Zsolnay, a long-time purveyor of ceramic gifts made using the eosin manufacturing process. A vast range of beautiful vases, jewellery boxes and other items are available in the famous Zsolnay patterns. We like the iridescent green frogs.
reviewed
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Tisza Cipő
Tisza Cipő ‘What goes around comes around’, the old saying tells us and that’s certainly true of ‘Tisza Shoes’ which has metamorphosed as a communist-era producer of forgettable footwear (‘since 1971’) to uber-trendy trainer manufacturer.
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Mammut
The two ‘Mammoths’ (Mammut I and Mammut II), standing side by side in Buda, are true ‘shopping and amusement centres’, with almost as many billiard parlours, dance clubs, fitness centres and cafes as shops. They attract the Buda middle class in droves, especially at the weekend.
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Malatinszky Wine Store
Owned and operated by vintner Csaba Malatinszky, the former sommelier at the exclusive Gundel restaurant, this shop also goes by the French name ‘La Boutique des Vins’ (The Wine Shop). It has an excellent selection of high-end Hungarian wines – ask the staff to recommend a bottle.
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Libri Könyvpalota
Spread over two floors, the huge ‘Book Palace’ has a selection of English-language novels, art books, guidebooks, maps, music, and a cafe on the 1st floor. For books in English and other languages specifically on Hungarian subjects, a more useful branch is Libri Stúdium.
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Jajcica
Whatever your ‘drag’ of choice happens to be – 1960s camp to leather or military – the folks at this anti-fashion emporium of used and vintage clothes will have you kitted out before you can say ‘Trick or Treat’. Their strong point is 1970s retro.
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Eclectick
Just opposite the Centrál Kávéház, local designer Edina Farkas’ boutique mostly sells her own innovative creations but also stocks clothing and accessories by Aquanauta, Camou, Balkan Tango, Heart and Roll, Red Aster, PUCC, Kriszta Marosi and Kati Nádasdi.
reviewed
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Pintér Antik
With a positively enormous antique showroom measuring 1800 sq metres in a series of cellars near the Parliament building, Pintér has everything – from furniture and chandeliers to oil paintings and china – and is the best outfit on Falk Miksa utca for browsing.
reviewed
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Herend
For both contemporary and traditional fine porcelain, there is no other place but Herend, Hungary's answer to Wedgwood. Among the most popular motifs is the Victoria pattern of butterflies and wild flowers designed for the eponymous British queen in the mid-19th century.
reviewed
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Valeria Fazekas
Are they hats or is it art? We’ll say both. Some of the limited headgear in a wide range or colours and fabrics on offer in this small gem of a boutique are out of this world (or at least on their way). Designer/artist Fazekas also does scarves and stylish tops.
reviewed
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Mester Pálinkák
If you’re into pálinka, Hungarian firewater flavoured with everything from apricot and sour cherry to (be still, our collective hearts) raspberry and sloe, choose this new shop that stocks scores of varieties. Service is helpful, advice very sound.
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Borostyán Wine Shop
Wine, wine and more wine - from a 10L plastic jug of new Furmint to a bottle of six-puttony Aszú - is available in shops and cellars throughout Tokaj. For a choice of vintage wines, try the shop at the Rákóczi cellar; the Borostyán Wine Shop.
reviewed