Restaurants in Hungary
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A
Menza
This stylish Hungarian restaurant on Budapest’s most lively square takes its name from the Hungarian for a drab school canteen – something it is anything but. Book a table if you can; it’s always packed with diners who come for its simply but perfectly cooked Hungarian classics with a modern twist and chilled atmosphere. Weekday two-course set lunches are a mere 890Ft.
reviewed
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B
Spoon
If you like the idea of dining on the high waters but still remaining tethered to the bank (just in case), Spoon’s for you. It serves international fusion cuisine amid bright and breezy surrounds and the choices for vegetarians are great. You can’t beat the views of the castle and Chain Bridge.
reviewed
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C
Auguszt Cukrászda
Tucked away behind the Fény utca market and Mammut shopping mall, this is the original Auguszt cafe (there are newer branches) and only sells its own shop-made cakes (200Ft to 500Ft), pastries and biscuits. There’s limited seating on the 1st floor.
reviewed
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D
Kárpátia
A veritable palace of fin-de-siècle design dating back more than 130 years that has to be seen to be believed, the ‘Carpathia’ serves almost modern Hungarian and Transylvanian specialities in both a restaurant and less-expensive söröző (brasserie), and there is a lovely covered garden terrace. This is one place to hear authentic csárdás Gypsy music, played nightly from 6pm to 11pm.
reviewed
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E
Új Sípos Halászkert
This lovely, very traditional restaurant faces (and, in the warmer weather, has outside seating in) Óbuda’s most beautiful and historic square. Try the signature halászlé (fish soup; 1100Ft to 2200Ft), which comes in various guises. As the restaurant’s motto puts it so succinctly: Halászlében verhetetlen (You can’t beat fish soup).
reviewed
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F
Carpe Diem
With its hammock seats, greenery and serene atmosphere, this small teahouse in Debrecen is an oasis on a pedestrian street dominated by concrete eyesores. It stocks teas from around the world for instant consumption or later enjoyment.
reviewed
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G
Kéhli
A self-consciously rustic but stylish place in Óbuda, Kéhli has some of the best traditional Hungarian food in town. In fact, one of Hungary’s best-loved writers, the novelist Gyula Krúdy (1878–1933), who lived in nearby Dugovits Titusz tér and whose statue greets you outside the restaurant, moonlighted as a restaurant critic and enjoyed Kéhli’s bone marrow on toast (990Ft as an entrée) so much that he included it in one of his novels.
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H
Le Jardin de Paris
A regular haunt of staff from the French Institute across the road (who should know their cuisine française ), the ‘Parisian Garden’ is housed in a wonderful old townhouse with interesting reliefs on the facade and abutting an ancient castle wall. The back garden is a delight in the warmer months. Set lunch is a snip at 1500Ft for two courses.
reviewed
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I
Nagyi Palacsintázója
Granny’s Palacsinta Place serves Hungarian pancakes – both the savoury (240Ft to 620Ft) and sweet (130Ft to 640Ft) varieties – round the clock and is always packed. There are other 24-hour branches in Buda (I Batthyány tér 5), Óbuda (III Szentendrei út 131) and Pest (V Petőfi Sándor tér 17–19).
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J
Napfényes Ízek
‘Sunny Tastes’ is a bit out of the way (though not if you’re staying on or near Andrássy út), but the wholesome foods and the speciality cakes are worth the trip. There is an organic shop where you can stock up on both packaged and baked goods, including excellent cakes. Set lunches are a bargain at 600Ft to 1100Ft.
reviewed
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K
Fausto
Still the most upmarket (and expensive) Italian restaurant in town, Fausto has brilliant pasta dishes, daily specials and desserts; there are lots of choices for vegetarians. The yellow walls and antique furniture provide an elegant touch and the Italian wine selection is huge. It remains one of the most pleasant dining experiences in Budapest.
reviewed
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Múzeum
This is the place to come if you like to dine in old-world style, with a piano softly tinkling in the background. It’s a cafe-restaurant that is still going strong after 125 years at the same location near the Hungarian National Museum. The goose liver parfait (3900Ft) is to die for, and there’s a good selection of Hungarian wines.
reviewed
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Fatál
No, this is not what you risk when visiting this place. Fatál might be a tourist trap but it serves massive Hungarian meals on a fatál (wooden platter) or in iron cauldrons in three rustic rooms. And follow the rules: bring your appetite and its friends; avoid the noisy backroom; and book in advance.
reviewed
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Pozsonyi Kisvendéglő
Visit this neighbourhood restaurant on the corner of Pozsonyi út for the ultimate local Budapest experience: gargantuan portions of standard Hungarian favourites, rock-bottom prices and a cast of local characters. There's a bank of tables on the pavement in summer and simple set weekday menus for 650Ft
reviewed
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Hummus Bar
If you’re looking for vegetarian food on the, err, hoof, this is the place to go for mashed chickpeas blended with sesame-seed paste, oil and lemon juice. Enjoy it au naturel (we mean the hummus) on pita or in a dish with accompaniments such as mushrooms or felafel.
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P
Lukács Cukrászda
This cafe is dressed up in the finest of decadence – all mirrors and gold – with soft piano music in the background. The selection of cakes (450Ft to 1250Ft) is excellent but expensive. Must be because the chief pâtissier has come all the way from France.
reviewed
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Q
Fülemüle
This quaint Hungarian restaurant that looks like time stood still just before WWII is quite a find in deepest Józsefváros and well worth the search. Dishes mingle Hungarian and international tastes with some old-style Jewish favourites.
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R
Café Kör
Just behind the Basilica of St Stephen, the ‘Circle Café’ is a great place for a light meal at any time, including breakfast (150Ft to 780Ft) till noon. Salads, desserts and daily specials are usually very good.
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S
Fehérszarvas Vadásztanya
This is Eger's silver-service restaurant. But the 'White-Deer Hunters' Farm', as its name literally translates, with its game specialities and cellar setting, is really a place to enjoy in autumn and winter.
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T
Wasabi
This sushi restaurant with a central conveyor belt has more than five dozen items to choose from and the decor is dark, minimalist and very cool. There’s also a Pest branch.
reviewed
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U
Kedves
Like Bergman, Kedves will appeal to those looking for a break from madding crowds; this chilled café was also where Lujza Blaha herself took tea.
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Kakas Csárda
In a rambling basalt house almost opposite Kecskeköröm is this homely restaurant with its fair share of kitsch and Hungarian specialities.
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Déli Kinai Gyorsétterem
This very cheap Chinese place just opposite the Déli train station is suitable for a last-minute feed before you head off.
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Palapa
The food at this colourful Mexican restaurant with live music makes it the perfect place for a change from Hungarian fare.
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Central European University Caféteria
The caféteria at the conveniently located Central European University is open to all and also serves pizza.
reviewed
