Things to do in Kalocsa
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Hajós
The village of Hajós, 21km southwest of Kalocsa, is - or should be - a magnet for wine lovers. Around 1300 wine cellars (Europe's largest concentration) are squashed into its winding streets and alleys, creating seemingly endless rows of sharply-pointed pincék (cellars). Centuries ago, a healthy Swabian population settled the region and began fermenting and storing wine; the conditions were seemingly perfect for such activities and the result is what you see today.
Full-bodied reds are the mainstay of wine production in the area, and the best odds for tastings are over the summer, when most visitors are expected. Hajós can be reached by four daily buses from Kalocsa.
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Kalocsa Cathedral
Kalocsa Cathedral, the fourth church to stand on the site, was completed in 1754 by András Mayerhoffer and is a baroque masterpiece, with a dazzling pink-and-gold interior full of stucco, reliefs and tracery. Some believe that the sepulchre in the crypt is that of the first archbishop of Kalocsa, Asztrik, who brought King Stephen the gift of a crown from Pope Sylvester II, thereby legitimising the Christian convert's control over Hungary.
A plaque on the south side outside memorialises this event. Franz Liszt was the first to play the cathedral's magnificent 3560-pipe organ.
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Paprika Museum
Along with Szeged, Kalocsa is the largest producer of paprika, the piros arany ('red gold') so important to Hungarian cuisine. You can learn a lot more than you need to know about its development (it was first mentioned in documents way back in the 16th century), production and beneficial qualities (it is far richer in vitamin C than citrus fruits) at the Paprika Museum.
If you happen to be in Kalocsa in September, get out to any of the nearby villages to see the green fields transformed into red carpets.
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Schöffer Collection
An exhibition of the futuristic work of the Paris-based artist Nicholas Schöffer, who was born in Kalocsa in 1912, can be seen at the Schöffer Collection. The collection would be more impressive if it was cleaned now and then, but you can see some of his work near the bus station; his kinematic light tower Chronos 8 (1982) is a Meccano-set creation of steel beams and spinning reflecting mirrors that two decades ago was supposed to portend the art of the new century. Guess not.
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Károly Viski Museum
The Károly Viski Museum is rich in folklore and art, and highlights the life and ways of the Swabian (Sváb), Slovak (Tót), Serbian (Rác) and Hungarian peoples of the area. It's surprising to see how colourful interiors of peasant houses became as wealth increased; walls, furniture, doors - virtually nothing was left undecorated by the famous 'painting women' of Kalocsa. The museum also has a large collection of coins dating from Roman times to today.
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Cathedral Treasury
The Cathedral Treasury, just east of the cathedral across Kossuth Lajos utca, is a trove of gold and bejewelled objects and vestments. In case you were wondering, the large bust of St Stephen was cast for the Millenary Exhibition in 1896 and contains 48kg of silver and 2kg of gold. Among the other valuable objects is a 16th-century reliquary of St Anne and a gold and crystal baroque monstrance.
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Aunt Judy's Csárda
Another place to see examples of wall and furniture painting is Aunt Judy's Csárda, a touristy restaurant near the Danube ferry crossing 6km southwest of Kalocsa. Some people find today's flower and paprika motifs twee and even garish; compare the new work with that in the museums and see what you think.
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Episcopal Library
The Episcopal Library is open to visitors and is one of the most impressive in Hungary. It contains more than 100,000 volumes, including 13th-century codices, a Bible belonging to Martin Luther that is annotated in the reformer's hand, illuminated manuscripts, and verses cut into palm fronds from Sri Lanka.
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House of Folk Arts
Another place to see examples of wall and furniture painting is the House of Folk Arts. Some people find today's flower and paprika motifs twee and even garish; compare the new work with that in the museums and see what you think.
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Trófea
This traditional Hungarian restaurant, on the banks of the Vajas stream or Vajas-fok, has a peaceful ambience and serves hearty goulash and the like; insect repellent is mandatory for the terrace in summer.
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Trinity Column
Almost everything of interest in Kalocsa is on or near Szent István király út, beginning at Szentháromság tér, where the Trinity Column is corroding into sand.
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Archbishop's Palace
The Great Hall and the chapel of the Archbishop's Palace (1766) contain magnificent frescoes by Franz Anton Maulbertsch, but you won't get to see these unless there's a concert on.
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Barokk
This may be a garrison town, but the bar scene is pretty dire. Barokk, a café opposite the cathedral, attracts many locals with its location and relaxed atmosphere.
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Club No 502 S&M
This may be a garrison town, but the bar scene is pretty dire. Club No 502 S&M is a boisterous option for those looking to have more than their fair share.
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City Gallery
The City Gallery is diagonally opposite the Károly Viski Museum.
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