Entertainment in Hungary
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A
Vittula
Great (though tiny and very smoky) underground (both senses) bar just off the Big Ring Road, with international performances, cutting-edge DJs and some cheap Slovakian lager.
reviewed
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B
Szimpla
This distressed-looking, very unflashy place remains one of the most popular drinking venues south of VI Liszt Ferenc tér, with live music Tuesday to Thursday evenings.
reviewed
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C
Captain Cook Pub
There’s not much to say about the CC except that it enjoys an enviable location diagonally opposite the basilica, the terrace is a delight in the warm weather, there are four beers on tap and the staff are welcoming and friendly. And for us, that’s sufficient.
reviewed
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D
Gerbeaud Cukrászda
Founded in 1858, Gerbeaud has been the most fashionable meeting place for the city’s elite on the northern side of Pest’s busiest square since 1870. Along with exquisitely prepared cakes and pastries (410Ft to 1150Ft), it serves continental breakfasts (2950Ft) and sandwiches (1550Ft to 2950Ft). A visit is mandatory.
reviewed
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E
Instant
Love, love, love this new ‘rubble bar’ on Pest’s most vibrant nightlife strip and so do all our friends. It’s got four bars on two levels with bopping, relaxing and chilling. If you want a taste of things to come and can’t wait till lunchtime, head for the ground-floor coffee shop (open from 8am to 10pm).
reviewed
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F
Mumus
Everyone’s favourite chilled romkocsma, the ‘bogeyman’ transforms from a cavernous vaulted beer hall in the cooler months to a wonderful outdoor kert in summer, with its own tree (real), stars (fake) and old oil drums masquerading as tables.
reviewed
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G
Bakelit Music Café
A student pub of sorts close to the centre, Bakelit attracts a boisterous and friendly crowd with its loud music, dark corners and orange-and-brown booths. This is certainly not a place for a quiet chat over a glass of chilled white wine.
reviewed
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H
Coxx Men’s Bar
Probably the cruisiest game in town, this boldly named mee(a)t rack has a long brick-lined cellar bar and some significant play areas in back. You might soon find yourself ‘behind bars’ in more ways than one.
reviewed
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I
Alter Ego
This is Budapest’s premier gay club, with the chic-est (think attitude) crowd and the best dance music on offer. It can be cruisy, but if you’re seriously looking for action, go to the bar of that name.
reviewed
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Morrison’s Opera
Morrison’s Opera is a music pub with a signature red telephone booth all the way from Londontown.
reviewed
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J
Castro Bisztró
Now in a new location just off the Little Ring Road, this eclectic place has a mixed clientele, Serbian finger food like čevapčiči (spicy meatballs; 900Ft to 1800Ft) and tasty pljeskavica (meat patties; 1200Ft), wi-fi throughout and the same chilled vibe it had when located on IX Ráday utca. The street running north from here, Madách Imre út, was originally designed to be as large and grand a boulevard as nearby Andrássy út. But WWII nipped that plan in the bud, and it now ends abruptly and rather self-consciously after just two blocks.
reviewed
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K
New York Café
This Renaissance-style cafe, considered the most beautiful in the world when it opened in 1895, was the scene of many a literary gathering over the years. It has now been extensively renovated but, alas, lacks the warmth and erudite crowd of most traditional cafes. Still, the opulence and the history of the New York will impress and it’s a great place for a late breakfast (1500Ft to 4800Ft; available till noon).
reviewed
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L
Terv Eszpresszó
‘Plan’ (as in ‘Five-Year’) is a retro-style cafe-bar on two levels decorated with photographs of Hungarian athletes, politicians, actors and so on from the 1950s and ‘60s. Unlike a lot of such places, the theme doesn’t get old in a half-hour and it’s a useful place for a quick beer or coffee on the way down to Váci utca.
reviewed
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M
Champs Sport Bar
Established by five Olympic medallists (swimmer, runner, pentathlon, kayaker and racer), Champs is the place for sports fans and the vicarious, with two giant screens and 35 TVs. There’s a wide choice of low-fat ‘fitness meals’ along with the less healthy favourites of armchair athletes. There’s also a Buda branch, which keeps the same hours.
reviewed
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N
Pécs National Theatre
Pécs is also renowned for its opera company and the Sophianae Ballet, which perform here. If you're told that tickets are sold out, try for a cancellation at the box office an hour before the performance. Advance tickets can be purchased from the theatre office (72 512 675, Perczel Mór 17, 10:00-19:00 Tue-Fri, 1hr before performances Sat & Sun).
reviewed
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O
Dokk Club
One of the perennials in Budapest’s ever-changing club scene, Dokk is a cavernous club in a converted warehouse on an island in the Danube. It attracts a well-heeled crowd and employees from the nearby porn-movie studio; it’s at its hottest, grinding-est best on a Friday night. Take a taxi, or it’s an easy walk over Árpád Bridge from the HÉV or bus stop.
reviewed
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P
Nothin’ But the Blues
The oldest blues venue in town, NBB has been wailing for more than 15 years now. The name may be accurate Thursday to Saturday from 8pm when there’s always a live strummer or some such but acts vary the rest of the week. Jamming is on Sunday afternoon and open mike on Monday night. Grab the in-house ‘beer guitar’ and give it a go.
reviewed
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Q
Ferenc Liszt Music Academy
A block southeast of Oktogon, what’s usually just called the ‘music academy’ was built in 1907. It attracts students from all over the world and is one of the top venues for concerts. The interior, with large and small concert halls richly embellished with Zsolnay porcelain and frescoes, is worth a look even if you’re not attending a performance.
reviewed
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R
Café Miró
A personal favourite in the Castle District, this bright cafe-restaurant has wrought-iron furniture and local artwork and photography on the walls. Aside from its decent snacks and cakes (360Ft to 390Ft), it does more substantial starters (1790Ft to 2190Ft) and main courses (1990Ft to 2990Ft). There’s also a Pest branch called Café Miró Grande.
reviewed
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S
Centrál Kávéház
This grande dame of a traditional cafe is still jostling to reclaim her title as the place to sit and look intellectual in Pest, after reopening a few years ago following extensive renovations. It serves meals as well as lighter fare, such as sandwiches (1000Ft) and omelettes (from 1490Ft) and, of course, cakes and pastries (390Ft to 800Ft).
reviewed
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T
Morrison’s 2
Far and away Budapest’s biggest party venue, this cavernous cellar club attracts a younger crowd with its four dance floors, half-dozen bars (including one in a covered courtyard) and enormous games room upstairs. Live bands from 9pm to 11pm in the week. No 2’s daddy is the much smaller and more sedate Morrison’s Opera.
reviewed
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U
Elsö Pesti Rétesház
It may be a bit overdone (think Magyar Disneyland, with olde worlde counters, painted plates stuck on the walls and curios embedded in Plexiglass washbasins) but the ‘First Strudel House of Pest’ is just the place to taste this Hungarian stretched pastry (240Ft to 290Ft) filled with apple, cheese, poppy seeds or sour cherry.
reviewed
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V
Bambi Presszó
The words ‘Bambi’ and ‘modern’ do not make comfortable bedfellows; nothing about this place (named after a communist-era soft drink) has changed since the 1960s. And that’s just the way we (and the rest of the crowd here) like it. Surly, set-it-down-with-a-crash service completes the distorted picture.
reviewed
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W
Pesti Vigadó
This Romantic-style hall, built in 1865 and facing the Danube to the west of Vörösmarty tér, is a popular venue for concerts, dance performances and other cultural events. It was badly damaged during WWII and, though the original style of the exterior was retained, the interior is all new and has been recently renovated.
reviewed
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X
Cinetrip
By no means should you miss this regular event at the Rudas Baths, if one is taking place during your visit. It combines partying and dancing with music, film and bathing and is just short of being an all-out orgy. Woohoo! It is usually held monthly from 9pm on Saturday; schedules are available at the box office of the Merlin Theatre.
reviewed