Restaurants in Budapest
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A
Menza
This stylish Hungarian restaurant on Budapest’s most lively square takes its name from the Hungarian for a drab school canteen – something it is anything but. Book a table if you can; it’s always packed with diners who come for its simply but perfectly cooked Hungarian classics with a modern twist and chilled atmosphere. Weekday two-course set lunches are a mere 890Ft.
reviewed
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Spoon
If you like the idea of dining on the high waters but still remaining tethered to the bank (just in case), Spoon’s for you. It serves international fusion cuisine amid bright and breezy surrounds and the choices for vegetarians are great. You can’t beat the views of the castle and Chain Bridge.
reviewed
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Auguszt Cukrászda
Tucked away behind the Fény utca market and Mammut shopping mall, this is the original Auguszt cafe (there are newer branches) and only sells its own shop-made cakes (200Ft to 500Ft), pastries and biscuits. There’s limited seating on the 1st floor.
reviewed
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D
Kárpátia
A veritable palace of fin-de-siècle design dating back more than 130 years that has to be seen to be believed, the ‘Carpathia’ serves almost modern Hungarian and Transylvanian specialities in both a restaurant and less-expensive söröző (brasserie), and there is a lovely covered garden terrace. This is one place to hear authentic csárdás Gypsy music, played nightly from 6pm to 11pm.
reviewed
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E
Új Sípos Halászkert
This lovely, very traditional restaurant faces (and, in the warmer weather, has outside seating in) Óbuda’s most beautiful and historic square. Try the signature halászlé (fish soup; 1100Ft to 2200Ft), which comes in various guises. As the restaurant’s motto puts it so succinctly: Halászlében verhetetlen (You can’t beat fish soup).
reviewed
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Kéhli
A self-consciously rustic but stylish place in Óbuda, Kéhli has some of the best traditional Hungarian food in town. In fact, one of Hungary’s best-loved writers, the novelist Gyula Krúdy (1878–1933), who lived in nearby Dugovits Titusz tér and whose statue greets you outside the restaurant, moonlighted as a restaurant critic and enjoyed Kéhli’s bone marrow on toast (990Ft as an entrée) so much that he included it in one of his novels.
reviewed
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Le Jardin de Paris
A regular haunt of staff from the French Institute across the road (who should know their cuisine française ), the ‘Parisian Garden’ is housed in a wonderful old townhouse with interesting reliefs on the facade and abutting an ancient castle wall. The back garden is a delight in the warmer months. Set lunch is a snip at 1500Ft for two courses.
reviewed
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H
Nagyi Palacsintázója
Granny’s Palacsinta Place serves Hungarian pancakes – both the savoury (240Ft to 620Ft) and sweet (130Ft to 640Ft) varieties – round the clock and is always packed. There are other 24-hour branches in Buda (I Batthyány tér 5), Óbuda (III Szentendrei út 131) and Pest (V Petőfi Sándor tér 17–19).
reviewed
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Fausto
Still the most upmarket (and expensive) Italian restaurant in town, Fausto has brilliant pasta dishes, daily specials and desserts; there are lots of choices for vegetarians. The yellow walls and antique furniture provide an elegant touch and the Italian wine selection is huge. It remains one of the most pleasant dining experiences in Budapest.
reviewed
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Múzeum
This is the place to come if you like to dine in old-world style, with a piano softly tinkling in the background. It’s a cafe-restaurant that is still going strong after 125 years at the same location near the Hungarian National Museum. The goose liver parfait (3900Ft) is to die for, and there’s a good selection of Hungarian wines.
reviewed
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K
Fatál
No, this is not what you risk when visiting this place. Fatál might be a tourist trap but it serves massive Hungarian meals on a fatál (wooden platter) or in iron cauldrons in three rustic rooms. And follow the rules: bring your appetite and its friends; avoid the noisy backroom; and book in advance.
reviewed
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Pozsonyi Kisvendéglő
Visit this neighbourhood restaurant on the corner of Pozsonyi út for the ultimate local Budapest experience: gargantuan portions of standard Hungarian favourites, rock-bottom prices and a cast of local characters. There's a bank of tables on the pavement in summer and simple set weekday menus for 650Ft
reviewed
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Lukács Cukrászda
This cafe is dressed up in the finest of decadence – all mirrors and gold – with soft piano music in the background. The selection of cakes (450Ft to 1250Ft) is excellent but expensive. Must be because the chief pâtissier has come all the way from France.
reviewed
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Fülemüle
This quaint Hungarian restaurant that looks like time stood still just before WWII is quite a find in deepest Józsefváros and well worth the search. Dishes mingle Hungarian and international tastes with some old-style Jewish favourites.
reviewed
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O
Café Kör
Just behind the Basilica of St Stephen, the ‘Circle Café’ is a great place for a light meal at any time, including breakfast (150Ft to 780Ft) till noon. Salads, desserts and daily specials are usually very good.
reviewed
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P
Wasabi
This sushi restaurant with a central conveyor belt has more than five dozen items to choose from and the decor is dark, minimalist and very cool. There’s also a Pest branch.
reviewed
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Déli Kinai Gyorsétterem
This very cheap Chinese place just opposite the Déli train station is suitable for a last-minute feed before you head off.
reviewed
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R
Central European University Caféteria
The caféteria at the conveniently located Central European University is open to all and also serves pizza.
reviewed
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S
Fény utca market
One of the largest and most central food markets in Buda is the Fény Utca Market next to the Mammut shopping mall.
reviewed
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Magdalena Merlo
Conveniently catty-cornered to the Ferenc Liszt Music Academy, this down-home eatery serves an odd mix of Hungarian as well as pizza (1090Ft to 1590Ft) and pasta (1290Ft to 1800Ft) dishes. What’s more, since it was the Svejk (from Jaroslav Hašek’s satirical novel The Good Soldier Svejk ) for many years, it has retained a page of ‘nostalgic’ Czech and Slovak dishes (740Ft to 1990Ft), including specialities like Slovakian cabbage soup and sztrapacska (noodles with cheese) for those who can’t let go of the memories.
reviewed
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Óceán Bár & Grill
We’d like to say this place has made quite a splash in Budapest but we’re afraid we’d be arrested by the pun police. Still, it’s making waves with its fresh seafood sourced from Scandinavia, congenial decor and wonderful fishmonger and delicatessen (enter from Régiposta utca; open from 10am to 9pm Tuesday to Saturday). We’ll come back for the seafood linguine (4690Ft) and the boiled lobster (2650Ft per 100g), but we do wish they’d remove that aquarium (or at least the Nemo residing therein).
reviewed
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Marxim
A short walk – naturally – from Moscow Sq, this odd place is a hang-out for teens who have added a layer of their own graffiti to the Communist memorabilia and kitsch, a joke that is now two decades old and kinda not funny. OK, we all know Stalin szuksz, but it’s still a curiosity for those who appreciate the Kremlin, ÁVO, Yuri Gagarin, Red October pizzas and the campy Stalinist decor. It also serves not-often-seen lepények (pies stuffed with meat or cheese; 650Ft to 920Ft).
reviewed
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Carmel Pince
With kosher restaurants of any sort at something of a premium in Budapest, the Carmel’s metamorphosis from ethnic Jewish to a bona-fide glatt kosher eatery is more than welcome. Try any of its authentic Ashkenazi specialities such as gefilte fish (1700Ft), matzo ball soup (1000Ft), chopped chicken liver (2500Ft) and a cholent (hearty brisket and bean casserole; 3000Ft) almost as good as the one Aunt Goldie used to make. There’s live klezmer (Jewish folk music; 2000Ft) at 7.30pm on Thursday.
reviewed
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Shalimar
Here since forever, Shalimar serves tandoori, tikka and kebab dishes from an open kitchen that taste like they’ve come via southern Hungary (there’s got to be paprika in there somewhere) rather than the subcontinent, but at least it’s a fix when you need it most. We’re told the chef’s from Nepal, which may explain the hybrid tastes. Still the mutton biryani (2190Ft) is a force to be reckoned with and the choice of vegetarian dishes (1050Ft to 1750Ft) is plentiful.
reviewed
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Goa
This anchor tenant on Budapest’s most beautiful boulevard serves excellent, innovative Asian-esque fusion food (try the prawns, though the salads – 1350Ft to 2950Ft – are excellent too). The wood-and-fabric decor is soft and welcoming, and we love eating outdoors on a summer’s evening (despite the toxic traffic fumes). The only downside is the ‘attitude’ on the staff. As one diner put it, ‘They’re waiters, not celebrities’.
reviewed
