Sights in Western Honduras
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Parque Nacional Cusuco
Just 45km from San Pedro Sula, but remarkably difficult to access, Parque Nacional Cusuco is a cloud forest nestled in the impressive Merendón mountain range. The park has abundant wildlife, including parrots, toucans and a large population of quetzals, best spotted from April to June. Its highest peak is Cerro Jilinco (2242m). The park’s visitors center is the starting point for five different hiking trails. Two trails – Quetzal and Las Minas – pass waterfalls and swimming holes. Guides can be hired at the visitors center for around L$100 per trip.
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Hacienda El Jaral
The large, rather cheesy Hacienda El Jaral resort-hotel-waterpark-museum-foodcourt-minimall-movie theater (did we miss anything?)is a budget version of Disneyland. The water park has several high tubular slides that wind down to a somewhat dated pool, while the movie theater has one screen showing Hollywood flicks. Both are the only ones of their kind near Copán Ruínas, and the best reason to make the trip (and then only if you are really jonesing for some soft-serve diversion).
The much-hyped Museo de la Vaca, Museum of the Cow, is a glorified gift shop, while the hotel is way overpriced.
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Macaw Mountain Bird Reserve & Nature Park
Set on 4 hectares of tropical forest, Macaw Mountain Bird Reserve & Nature Park has large enclosures with birds ranging from brilliant Buffon’s macaws to manic keel-billed toucans. The ticket price (a bit steep, but good for three days) includes a one-hour guided tour (English and French spoken). There’s also a 20-minute nature loop through an adjacent coffee plantation, a small swimming hole and a cafe. It’s 2.5km north of Copan Ruinas, mostly uphill; a taxi is L$20 per person.
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Los Sapos
From Hacienda San Lucas in Copán Ruínas, a pleasant 10-minute walk brings you to Los Sapos, a Maya site purportedly dedicated to women and fertility. Some archaeologists believe it was a place for royal women to conduct fertility ceremonies, or even to give birth. Others say it was simply a place for stone carvers to practice their trade.
In any case, the actual pieces - roughly hewn rocks, one in the shape of a sapo (frog), hence the site's name - are significantly eroded but the hike there, with great views over the valley, is half the fun. The trails to this site are maintained by Hacienda San Lucas, and nonguests are charged for their use.
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Aguas Termales Presidente
The hot springs at Aguas Termales Presidente are one of Gracias’ main attractions. Four kilometers southeast of town, the hot springs have several pools at various temperatures. You can walk there in one to 1½ hours: take the road to La Esperanza until you reach the right-hand turnoff for the Aguas Termales, then follow the road or take the first right onto a footpath, which is a shortcut but requires fording a (usually) small river. You should be able to hitch a ride back – everybody does. Cabs don’t usually come here; hiring a private truck costs around L$200, with an hour at the springs (ask at Hotel Guancascos).
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Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción
The Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción is a colonial gem. Built between 1685 and 1715, it contains fine art in the Renaissance, baroque and neoclassic styles, both inside and out. The impressive three-paneled altar is similar to that of Tegucigalpa’s cathedral; both are believed to have been made by the same unknown artist. The clock in the iglesia tower is the oldest in the Americas and one of the oldest in the world. The Moors built it around 1100 for the palace of the Alhambra in Granada. It was donated to the town by King Phillip II of Spain.
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La Pintada
Located 10 minutes' walk south of Los Sapos Maya site, La Pintada is a picturesque Chortí Maya village known for the production of corn-husk dolls. (You may be swarmed by kids trying to sell them to you.) The town has beautiful views, including of the acropolis at the Copán archaeological site. The name of the town comes from a little-known painted stele nearby. The folks at Hacienda San Lucas can provide a guide to point it out (free, but a tip is expected).
The trails to this site are maintained by Hacienda San Lucas, and nonguests are charged for their use.
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A
Museo Regional de Arqueología Maya
Although in need of some updating, the 1970s-era Museo Regional de Arqueología Maya gives a good overview of the Maya and their presence in the Valle de Copán. The exhibit contains some excellent pieces: painted pottery, carved jade, Maya glyphs and the original Stela B, portraying King 18 Rabbit. Don’t miss the Tumba de la Bruja, the round tomb of a shamana who was buried with several spectacular offerings, including two human heads (neither of which were hers).
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Cicai
Closer to town, Cicai is a semi-boarding school, 1.5km north from the center, where around 80 indigenous students learn folk art and vocational skills. The school welcomes visitors – some of the teachers are foreign volunteers – and you can sit in on a class or talk with the students or teachers. Mornings are best; check in at the administrative office first. Sadly, the school is often without enough supplies or materials.
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Museo Colonial de Arte Religioso
Opened in 1962, the Museo Colonial de Arte Religioso was once the site of the first university (1632) in Central America, which operated for almost 200 years. Priests have occupied the building even longer, since 1558. Totally renovated in 2005, the museum contains artwork and religious paraphernalia culled from all five churches of Comayagua, spanning the 16th to 18th centuries. The price of the ticket includes a guide.
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Copán Archaeological Site
Honduras has only one major Mayan ruin, but it's a true gem. A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1980, Copán archaeological site is known for its remarkable stone sculptures, especially the enormous and intricately carved stelae depicting former leaders. The site is not as lofty or grandiose as, say, Tikal or Chichén Itzá, but the artisanship is impressive. The museum is also top-notch.
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San Pedro Cathedral
This cathedral is worth peeking into. Occupying almost a full city block, it has high, pale-yellow walls and pillars, and an even higher central cupola. The walls are laden with paintings of the saints and other Catholic imagery and hand-carved wooden statues of the same. Like so many huge urban cathedrals in Latin America, this one offers instant respite from the hustle and bustle on the street.
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Enchanted Wings
Enchanted Wings has a terrific mariposario (butterfly enclosure), bursting with tropical plants and dozens of moths and butterflies flitting about. Come before 11am and you may see new butterflies breaking out of their cocoons (the adults are more active then, too). An attached orquidiario has 150 different species of orchids, all native to Honduras.
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D
Museo de la Naturaleza
The Museo de la Naturaleza has over 80 exhibits that cover the gamut of natural history, from paleontology and human biology to ecology and the universe. The level of detail is on a par with a college textbook, which can get a bit old given the signs are in Spanish. If the door’s closed, enquire around the corner at the Fundación Ecologista HR Pastor.
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Museo Regional de Arqueología
Housed in the former presidential palace, the Museo Regional de Arqueología has six excellent exhibits displaying artifacts from ancient Lenca communities, including pottery, metates (stone on which grain is ground), stone carvings and petroglyphs. It’s way overpriced for foreigners, and signage is in English and Spanish.
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Fuerte de San Cristóbal
Built in response to the tumultuous times of the 18th century, the striking Fuerte deSan Cristóbal has fantastic views of Gracias and the San Marcos church below. Beyond that, there’s not much else to see up there, save the tomb of Honduran Juan Lindo, the former president of El Salvador (1841–42) and Honduras (1847–52).
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Casa Galeano
Lenca pottery is arguably the best and most widely recognized artesanía in Honduras. Yet the country has long lacked a 1st-class museum to exhibit and preserve this unique folk art. Now there is one in Gracias – the Casa Galeano.
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Jardín Botánico
The Jardín Botánico is at the southern end of town, five blocks south of the old Mercado Municipal, and takes up half a city block. Local flora can be admired all year long from a sidewalk that meanders through the park.
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E
Museo de Antropología e Historia de San Pedro Sula
Don’t let its ’70s look fool you: the Museo de Antropología e Historia de San Pedro Sula is an excellent museum that walks visitors through the changes in the Valle de Sula from the pre-Columbian era to the modern day.
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Museo Para la Infancia el Pequeño Sula
More a children’s learning center than a museum, the Museo Para La Infancia El Pequeño Sula offers monthly workshops in the sciences and arts. It’s 3km from Av Circunvalación.
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Centro Turístico Terma del Río
Centro Turístico Terma del Río is located 7km from town on the road to Santa Rosa de Copán. This hot spring is more relaxed than its ‘presidential’ counterpart.
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Casa K’inich
The Casa K’inich was closed when we passed through. If it reopens, it’s a fine children’s museum that explores everything Maya.
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Nuestra Señora de la Merced
Comayagua’s first iglesia was Nuestra Señora de la Merced, built from 1550 to 1558; it has a great little plaza in front.
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Mirador El Cuartel
For a fine view over the fertile Copanecan valley, head to the Mirador El Cuartel, an abandoned jail five blocks north of the Parque Central.
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Nuestra Señora de la Caridad
The 1730 Nuestra Señora de la Caridad is a fine iglesias in Comayagua.
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