Getting there & away
There are a few ways to visit the park. Most day trips leave at 8am and return at 3pm – returning much later means fighting high waves on the way back. Garífuna Tours (448 2904; www.garifunatours.com; 9a Calle at 5a Ave) in Tela has trips to Parque Nacional Jeanette Kawas (Punta Sal) almost daily, including hiking, snorkeling and hanging out on Playa Cocalito (per person US$27). This is definitely the easiest way to go, though groups can be big and the tour can feel prepackaged.
Local lancheros (boat operators) can provide more personalized service but it can be hard for independent travelers to pull together enough people to make the trip affordable. Don Ardon (448 2217) is a reliable and recommended boatman and guide, charging US$105 to US$135 for groups of up to 12 passengers. You can also ask at the Bahía Azul restaurant (448 2381; 7am-11pm), opposite the Hotel y Restaurante Río Mar in Tela, whose owner does the Punta Sal trip for around US$20 per person for groups of six or more. Otherwise, you can negotiate a trip with one of the boatmen who tie up under the bridge between old and new Tela.
It’s also possible to make the trip from the town of Miami. From there you can do a day trip by boat or even walk to Punta Sal and camp there, which, among other things, means you have the beach to yourself after 2pm.