Pascual Abaj & Morería

Lonely Planet review

On a hilltop south of the town, Pascual Abaj is a shrine to the Mayan earth god Huyup Tak'ah (Mountain Plain). Said to be hundreds - perhaps thousands - of years old, the stone-faced idol has suffered numerous indignities at the hands of outsiders, but local people still revere it. Chuchkajaues come regularly to offer incense, food, cigarettes, flowers, liquor, Coca-Cola, and perhaps even to sacrifice a chicken, in thanks and hope for the Earth's continuing fertility.

Sacrifices do not take place at regular hours. If you're in luck, you may witness one. The worshipers will not mind if you watch, but be sure to request permission before taking any photos and don't assume it will be granted. You may be asked if you want to make an offering (of a few quetzals) yourself. If there is no ceremony, you can still see the idol and enjoy the walk up the pine-clad hill. Tourists walking to visit Pascual Abaj have on occasions been robbed, so the best plan is to join with others and go not too late in the afternoon.

Walk downhill on 5a Av from the main plaza, turn right into 9a Calle and follow it downhill. At the bottom of the hill, bear left along a path and head up through either of the morería s (ceremonial mask workshops, worth a visit on the way up or way back) that are signposted here. From the back of either morería , follow the path uphill through the trees to the top of the hill. You'll find the idol in its rocky, smoke-blackened shrine in a clearing, looking a little like something from Easter Island. The squat stone crosses nearby have many significances for the Maya, only one of which pertains to Christ. The area is littered with past offerings.