Things to do in The Peloponnese
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Antica Gelateria di Roma
Antica Gelateria di Roma 'Bongiorno - this is an Italian gelati shop!' announces Italian gelati maestro and maestra Marcello and Claudio Raffo as you enter their premises. That's just in case you didn't see and smell (and we'll bet, soon taste) the smorgasbord of the best (yes, best) traditional gelati outside Italy. And don't say we didn't warn you!
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Ancient Olympia
The Olympics were undoubtedly the Ancient World's biggest sporting event. During the games warring states briefly halted their squabbles, corporate sponsors vied to outdo each other, and victorious competitors won great fame and considerable fortune (sometimes even living at public expense). You could say much the same about their modern-day equivalent, the main difference being that back then only men could compete and they did most of it sans underpants.
Held every four years until their abolition by killjoy Emperor Theodosius I in AD 394, the games lasted at least 1000 years. The World Heritage-listed site of Ancient Olympia is still a recognisable complex of temples, …
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Palamidi Fortress citadel
This vast and spectacular Palamidi Fortress citadel stands on a 216m-high outcrop of rock with excellent views down onto the sea and surrounding land. It was built by the Venetians between 1711-14, and is regarded as a masterpiece of military architecture. Within its walls stands a series of independent bastions, strategically located across the hill. The most important, and best preserved, is the western Agios Andreas Bastion, which stands at the top of the steps from town.
It was the home of the garrison commander, and it is named after the tiny church in the interior courtyard. There are wonderful views over the Akronafplia and the old town from the bastion walls.
The M…
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Archaeological Museum
The superb Archaeological Museum - Ancient Olympia's archaeological site museum - about 200m north of the sanctuary's ticket kiosk, is a great place to start or end your visit to the site of Ancient Olympia.
There is a scale site model, and the reassembly of the pediments and metopes from the Temple of Zeus are spectacular (despite not being complete). The eastern pediment depicts the chariot race between Pelops and Oinomaos, the western pediment shows the fight between the Centaurs and Lapiths, and the metopes depict the Twelve Labours of Hercules.
Don't miss the 4th-century Parian marble statue of Hermes of Praxiteles, a masterpiece of classical sculpture from the Temple…
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Akronafplia fortress
Rising above the old part of town, the Akronafplia fortress is the oldest of Nafplio's three castles, although there's much less to see here than at the other two forts. The lower sections of the walls date back to the Bronze Age. Until the arrival of the Venetians, the town was restricted to within its walls. The Turks called it İç Kale (meaning 'inner castle'). It was used as a political prison from 1936-56.
There's a lift up to the fortress from Plateia Poliko Nosokomiou at the western edge of town - look for the flags at the entrance of the tunnel leading to the lift. It heads up to a flash hotel complex from where you can access the fortress. The old gateway to the…
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Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia
The history of the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia, on the northeastern side of town, is more interesting than the site. Like most of the deities in Greek mythology, the goddess Artemis had many aspects, one of which was Artemis Orthia. In the earliest times this aspect of the goddess was honoured through human sacrifice. The Spartans gave this activity away for the slightly less gruesome business of flogging young boys in honour of the goddess.
The museum houses a collection of clay masks used during ritual dances. The sanctuary is signposted at the junction of Odos Ton 118 and Orthias Artemidos. One of the other remaining remnants of ancient Sparta is the sanctuary of Leoni…
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Kastro
The city's wonderful old Kastro stands on the site of the acropolis of ancient Patrai. The Romans were the first to build a fort here around AD 550, but the present structure is of Frankish origin, remodelled many times over the centuries by the Byzantines, Venetians and Turks. It was in use as a defensive position until WWII.
Set in an attractive pencil-pined park, it is reached by climbing the 190-plus steps at the end of Agiou Nikolaou. Great views of the Ionian Islands of Zakynthos and Kefallonia are the reward.
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National Gallery - Alexandros Soutzos Museum
Housed in a stunningly restored neoclassical building, this beautiful new gallery - an arm of the Athens National Gallery - displays works on the 1821 Greek War of Independence, including paintings of Greek painters Vryzakis and Tsokos, considered the most important painters of the post-war years. The paintings, a few sculptures and artefacts are divided according to themes: battles, dying heroes, victorious sea battles, consequences of war in everyday life and ideology of the Free State.
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Museum of the Olive & Greek Olive Oil
This stunningly designed Museum of the Olive & Greek Olive Oil shows and tells you everything you could want to know about the olive. The high-quality explanations in English trace the history of the olive from its first appearance in the Mediterranean to the modern day. There are some magnificent antique olive presses, as well as a series of working models that demonstrate changes in pressing technology. The downstairs café serves good coffee.
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archaeological museum
Sparta's archaeological museum sits in a beautiful park setting with a fountain and an orange grove. It holds a few dusty artefacts from Sparta's illustrious past, including votive sickles that Spartan boys dedicated to Artemis Orthia, heads and torsos of various deities, a statue of the great King Leonidas, masks and grave stelae. It also has photographs and finds from Mycenaean chamber graves at Pellana, thought to be the Sparta of King Menelaus.
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Byzantine Church of Christ the Saviour
The main cobbled path at Sparta's ruins leads north to the acropolis (some of which is fenced off), passing the Byzantine Church of Christ the Saviour on the way to the hill-top Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou. Some of the most important finds in the town's archaeological museum were unearthed here. Alternatively, you can see and approach the theatre from here. There are impressive views of the snowcapped Taÿgetos Mountains.
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Mythos
Even the waiter tells you this romantic place has a woman's touch: flowers, petunias and shrubs create a beautiful oasis outside, Mediterranean antiques, lamps and other surprises adorn the inside (thanks to the female owner-decorator). And that's before you've even reached her essence - try the mythos pie (containing chicken, feta and fresh vegetables) and chocolate soufflé.
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Museum of the History of the Olympic Games in Antiquity
The Museum of the History of the Olympic Games in Antiquity is a beautifully presented space depicting the history of all things athletic, as well as the Nemean, Panathenaic and, of course, Olympic Games. The sculptures, mosaics and other displays all play tribute to athletes and athleticism. Women - and their involvement (or lack of) - are also acknowledged.
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Patra Carnival
Patra's citizens party hard during the annual Patra Carnival. The programme begins in mid-January, and features a host of minor events leading up to a wild weekend of costume parades, colourful floats and celebrations in late February or early March. The event draws big crowds, so hotel reservations are essential if you want to stay overnight.
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Taverna Bacchus
The God of Wine, Bacchus, has extended his portfolio to include delectable delights with fresh ingredients in this smart stone taverna in nearby Miraka. Don't miss the lamb with oregano. The restaurant is on new premises with accommodation (per room including breakfast, a pool and lovely valley views. Mmmm, now where's Cupid?
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Omorfi Poli
More upmarket than the neighbouring tavernas and well worth splurging the extra euro or two, the professional chef does gourmet wonders with Greek and Italian dishes to a changing menu (surprise!). If it's on offer, try to catch the farfalle with salmon. It has an excellent wine list with many local choices .
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O Thea
It's worth the effort to venture uphill (even on foot) to the small village of Floka, 1.5km north of Olympia, for hearty traditional taverna fare. Enjoy the grills, zucchini balls and views of Floka from the large terrace. That is, if the locals don't beat you to it. It's open irregularly outside high season.
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Military Museum
Keen military buffs should march into the Military Museum. The displays span a broad chronological sweep from the Turkish occupation (depicted in grisly paintings) to the 21st century. National servicemen take guided tours (English speakers are supposedly available). Unfortunately, all signage is in Greek.
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King Leonidas Statue
A wander around ancient Sparta's meagre ruins bears testimony to the accuracy of Thucydides' prophecy. Head north along Paleologou to the King Leonidas statue , which stands belligerently in front of a soccer stadium. West of the stadium, signs point the way to the southern gate of the acropolis.
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Museum of the History of Excavations in Olympia
Next to the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games, and housed in a small historic building, the Museum of the History of Excavations in Olympia will appeal more to archaeology and history buffs. It displays items relating to the site's German excavations in the 19th century.
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Historical Museum of the Olympic Games
Only real Olympic devotees will enjoy the rather uninspired Historical Museum of the Olympic Games . It houses a collection of commemorative stamps and literature, mostly in French. It's two blocks west of Praxitelous Kondyli, opposite the junction of Agerinai and Kosmopoulou.
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Europa Centre
This convenient, cafeteria-style place is close to the international ferry dock and a good place to hang out en-route. The helpful staff serves standard but filling fare. There's free (short-term) luggage storage, TV, internet and pinball machines.
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Lathos
This quirky drinking hole is jam-packed with remote-controlled junkyard automata from moving tables to an arm clanging a cymbal. Depending on his mood, the DJ plays a haphazard mix of musical beats - perfect for jiving with your surroundings.
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Karathona Beach
If you're feeling energetic, you can follow a path east around the coast for about an hour to sandy Karathona Beach , at the far side of the Palamidi Fortress. The walk is extremely pretty, as should be the beach if it weren't for the litter.
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Benakion Archaeological Museum
The Benakion Archaeological Museum is a small, local museum. The 1st-floor prehistoric displays are particularly good, with comprehensive explanations in English. It's just north of Plateia 23 Martiou, signposted off Ypapantis.
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