Must-see restaurants in Northern Greece

  • Stoa Louli

    Ioannina

    Fronted by grand arches, this atmospheric place is set in a passage between 19th-century stone buildings. The solid, somewhat modernised Greek menu…

  • Grada

    Macedonia

    First there's the dining room: extravagantly colourful, with murals that could be Mexican, Indian, Russian, or none of the above, and an unabashed…

  • Horiatiko

    Thrace

    Go with an appetite to sample all the local Turkish-inflected forms of pites (pies) here, from flaky layered giozlemes filled with greens to creamy open…

  • Castello Restaurant

    Parga

    An unreconstructed 'date night' restaurant, Castello can feel a bit old-fashioned, but its wide-ranging Mediterranean menu satisfies, with fish brochettes…

  • To Pazari

    Macedonia

    Named for the bazaar that flourished near here under Turkish rule, To Pazari is an unpretentious, tile-floored little place where the owner is usually in…

  • Nea Klimataria

    Thrace

    All the classics are done well at this estiatorio (restaurant serving ready-made food as well as à la carte), a block back from the harbourfront hubbub…

  • Blé

    Thessaloniki

    This chic patisserie chain (the name is French for 'wheat') offers a tooth-tingling range, from traditional Cretan baked goods to dainty cupcakes, at all…

  • Trigona Elenidis

    Thessaloniki

    A veritable institution since 1960, Elenidis specialises in Thessaloniki's favourite pastry, the trigona. This sweet, flaky triangular cone, filled with…

  • Palia Poli

    Macedonia

    'Old Town' is a lovely restaurant inside a waterfront mansion opening onto a spacious courtyard, where you can spend hours over your food and wine as the…

  • Irtha & Edessa

    Macedonia

    A short walk from the waterfalls, this local favourite, set in a glass construction, has spit-roasted lamb and grilled meat specialities, as well as a…

  • Ousies

    Macedonia

    A wonderfully convivial ouzerie (taverna that serves ouzo, amongst other drinks) a little way from Edessa's busier spots, Ousies is a place where younger…

  • Agios Giorgos

    Thrace

    Considered one of the best tavernas in the area, Agios Giorgos sits by a chapel of the same name, on a hill above Lepti, about 10 minutes' drive west of…

  • Giannoula

    Thessaloniki

    This is grandmother's cooking in a very literal way. Simple Greek classics from grills to salads to cheese-stuffed meats have been served with the same…

  • Diethnes

    Ioannina

    Ioannina's most celebrated sweets shop, Diethnes has both French pastries and more Eastern syrupy treats such as its distinctive big, buttery baklava. It…

  • Lithos stou Taki

    Zagorohoria

    Settle in by the fireplace or out on the terrace, near the goat-bell wind chimes, and sample an array of super-local and seasonal food. Dishes like baked…

  • Tzimas

    Parga

    A great little taverna on the main highway, Tzimas is open year-round and recommended by locals for Greek standards such as roast aubergine with feta,…

  • Fournos Karanika

    Preveza

    One of Preveza's busiest bakeries, Karanika is just east of the clock tower. It makes very good savoury pies (you'll think you're back up in the mountains…

  • Kitchen Bar

    Thessaloniki

    Occupying a handsomely-rejuvenated port warehouse with views of the Gulf of Thessaloniki (Thermaïkos Kolpos) from its outdoor tables, Kitchen comes into…

  • To Koutouki tou Nikola

    Epiros

    This friendly family-run restaurant cooks up hearty local dishes, from pites (pies) and soups (the white bean is excellent, as is the goat soup) to…

  • Sta Riza

    Zagorohoria

    For years, Sta Riza was a go-to in a village in the lower Zagori. In 2018, it moved to this new spot above Vitsa. It's a favourite for hearty country…

  • Metsovotiki Folia

    Ioannina

    Wood panelling and embroidered curtains cosify what's essentially a cheap-and-cheerful charcoal-grill restaurant, with a menu of souvlaki and (thanks to…

  • Say Yes

    Ioannina

    This all-day cafe has a broad menu that's especially popular for brunch, with treats like red-velvet pancakes and a cheesy-creamy croque madame. At night,…

  • Restaurant Bakalis

    Macedonia

    A good seafood taverna with tables on the waterfront, just above the beach at the southern end of the strip. Try the grilled fish, big refreshing salads,…

  • 5 Fs

    Epiros

    Blanketing the Metsovo plateia with the enticing smell of grilled meat, this friendly place serves just as it has since it opened in 1962: your meal of…

  • Chatzis

    Thessaloniki

    Glistening syrup-soaked treats have been luring dessert fans into Chatzis since 1908, back when Thessaloniki was still an Ottoman city. Try the moist,…

  • Meze Meze

    Macedonia

    Justifiably popular, Meze Meze offers an unchallenging selection of Greek favourites, distinguished by freshness, generosity and a sure instinct for the…

  • Prespa

    Macedonia

    A proper local taverna that is as frill-free as it is authentic – go for the beetroot salad with feta, grilled peppers, shrimp saganaki (fried with cheese…

  • Sofi

    Thrace

    This cheery cafe is good for a lighter meal, coffee or a drink. Order at the counter from the day's selection of soups, a few hot lunch options (meatballs…

  • Mikri Arktos

    Zagorohoria

    Next to the town hall on the plateia in Tsepelovo, in the shade of a giant plane tree, this restaurant is a friendly place beloved by locals for miles…

  • Tou Aristou

    Thessaloniki

    This close to the port, it makes sense to try Thessaloniki's take on fish and chips, prepared here since 1940. Thick cuts of salt cod are expertly fried…

  • Dore Zythos

    Thessaloniki

    With their views of the White Tower, Zythos' outside tables are a scenic spot to enjoy a fava-bean purée topped with capers or feast on beautifully smoked…

  • Kanella & Garyfallo

    Zagorohoria

    Love mushrooms? Head straight for this restaurant devoted to woodland fungus in all its delicious forms. The menu celebrates foraged chanterelles, berries…

  • Kouzina Kioupia

    Thessaloniki

    Bright, friendly and spilling onto the plaza, this welcoming taverna fills with happy local families and tables full of friends. Straightforward taverna…

  • Biz Bizé

    Thrace

    Go through the passage next to Alpha Bank to find this cheap and cheerful mezedhopoleio, a branch of a Thessaloniki favourite, where there's often live…

  • Ai Giorgis

    Thrace

    Tucked among old olive groves and overlooking Demir Ali Beach, this sleek restaurant-lounge is expert in higher-end seafood, from sizzling shrimp saganaki…

  • To Etsi

    Thessaloniki

    This bawdily decorated, iconic eatery near the White Tower is a local institution offering refreshingly light souvlaki and soutzoukakia (meat rissoles in…

  • Me...Raki

    Thrace

    Tucked by a little patch of green, off the main street, this is a pleasant place for a bargain light meal (unless you get a giant pork chop – but that's…

  • To Araliki

    Macedonia

    This cheerful family-run taverna in Panagia isn't expensive, yet delivers an expertly cooked menu of meaty Greek favourites. Locals come for the barbecued…

  • Folia tou Pelargou

    Thrace

    One of two tavernas in the village of Dadia, this one has a menu that excels both in local game meats and more standard basics, such as a supremely…

  • Mikraki

    Thessaloniki

    This friendly shopfront taverna is a true neighbourhood hang-out, a place where you can find top, home-cooked Greek fare, all served with warmth and…