Restaurants in Northern Greece
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Hatzis
In operation since 1908, when Thessaloniki was still an Ottoman city, this local legend brings the tastes of old Constantinople to you. After Hatzis, you'll never ask for a simple 'baklava' again.
The veritable symphony of sweets served at Hatzis includes vezir parmak (politika syrup cake with cream filling), hanoum bourek (hand-made pastry with raisins, peanuts and cream) and a dish of malempi mastiha (cream from milk and rice porridge, flavoured with mastiha from Chios and served with rose syrup).
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Kitchen Bar
Whether you're just coming for a cool waterside coffee or seek some inventive international fare, this lofty, sumptuously decorated café-restaurant on the port is fab. The salads and risotto are as bright as the flames in the open kitchen where the chefs, like the style-conscious clientele, are always on display.
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Ouzou Melathron
Just from the sight of the scroll-like menu at this very popular sidestreet ouzerie, you know you're in for something special. Occupy yourself with ouzo and mezedhes, then dig into heartier fare like lamb in sweet wine sauce.
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Myrsini
Myrsini serves up hearty portions of authentic Cretan dishes for Thessasloniki's boisterous young hedonists. The food is delicious and healthy, from rusks topped with tomato, Cretan olive oil and soft cheese (dakos) and flavourful wild greens (horta) to roast rabbit, pork and - crucially - mizithropitakia (flaky filo triangles with sweet mizithra cheese).
Décor is simple, with worn wood floors and traditional accoutrements. Violin and bouzouki music from Greece's best island plays on in the background.
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1900 Café Restaurant
If you want to wow a date - or simply enjoy a really good Italian meal - this is the place to come. Genial owner Miltos Miltiadis provides a warm welcome at this restored, two-floor mansion, a living lesson in style with thick-painted crimson walls, Latin music, worn wood floors and soft light. Everything is good, from the penne and parmesan to Portobello mushrooms with mavrodafni wine sauce.
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Molyvos
This place has a lovely refined setting and elevates Greek cuisine to fine dining; nearby Molyvos Ethnik (2310 555 952), located on the corner of Ionos Dragoumi and Papadopoulou is its freewheeling companion eatery, with a smooth interior of high ceilings and polished mirrors, imaginative almost-fusion cuisine and Latin music.
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Amvrosios
From sardines to swordfish, they have it all at this iconic fish taverna spilling out onto a flowering side lane by the waterfront. Everyone comes here, from confident cats to boisterous assortments of Greek students. Choose from the catch of the day, relax with a beer or wine and let the chefs get to work.
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Stoa Louli
The Stoa Louli has been through many incarnations since being built in 1875; first it was an inn, later a trade centre for Jewish leather merchants, and even an Ottoman Bank. This tastefully lit place, fronted by grand arches, serves an alluring range of Greek favourites with a contemporary twist.
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Agapitos
This posh patisserie is the place to go for a taste of the Continent. Its cakes, fruit concoctions and profiterols (chocolate pudding with a crunchy base and white cream) are all excellent. Try the superlative efrosini chocolate cake, or smudge your fingers on the delicious mini-eclairs.
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Panellinion
This friendly taverna has traditional Ladadika décor, with its wooden floors and walls lined with olive-oil bottles and tins of produce. Panellinion has great variety, from ouzos and cheeses to delicious seafood mezedhes; only organic vegetables are used.
reviewed
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Es Aei
This favourite haunt of local and foreign gastronomes combines an Ottoman flair with a unique, glass-roofed courtyard dining room. Its inventive dishes include mezedhes made from organic ingredients and Ioannina specials like grilled pork sausages.
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Dore Zythos
Grab a table outside when the weather's warm and watch the White Tower across the way while savouring imaginative Mediterranean cuisine. Sister establishment Zythos in Ladadika has great architecture and equally fine food.
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Parakath
Thessaloniki's only Pontian restaurant does rich, traditional pasta-based dishes with old Black Sea flair. Frenetic Pontian live music on weekends, when bookings are essential, keeps things loose. Take a taxi to get there.
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Mystagogia
A popular late-night tsipouradiko (place serving tsipouro - sea bream - and light snacks), the studenty Mystagogia has a good selection of nourishing mezedhes and good beef keftedes (meatballs).
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Krikelas
The iconic Krikelas offers a superlative, refined dining experience for gastronomes, with dishes ranging from wild game to Cretan snails and other local Greek specialities. The wine list is of course deep.
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To Etsi
This bawdily decorated, iconic eatery near the White Tower offers refreshingly light souvlaki and soutzoukakia with vegetable dips, in Cypriot-style pita bread. Look for the neon sign out front.
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Spiros Tsoumanis
This hearty country grill at the end of Papingo specialises in local pites and roast lamb sti gastra with fresh-from-the-garden horta (wild greens) salads.
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O Kaihis
This taverna, also on a side street a bit further south, takes a no-nonsense approach with its grilled meats and hefty Greek salads. Service is gruff but thorough.
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Kokkinos Fournos
Just above the Rotunda, this classic bakery does Thessaloniki's best koulouraki vanilias - crunchy, slightly sweet golden cookies perfect for dipping in Greek coffee.
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Miami
This seaside fish taverna east of the centre is preferred by the Greek jet set, but regular folks also confirm it's got some of the best fish in town. Take a taxi.
reviewed
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Gioiello
The waterfront café of the Daios Hotel, Gioiello is a relaxing spot for a coffee or light lunch, with a glittering interior and sharp service.
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O Dionysos
Along upper Monodendri's main street, this is a good spot for a tasty fakopita (lentil pie) or other traditional Epirot pies.
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Ta Soudena
A popular taverna at the entrance to Ano Pedina, Ta Soudena offers Greek vegetable mezedhes, pites (pies) and grilled meats.
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Restaurant H Tsoumanis
Gorge yourself near the gorge at this iconic taverna in Vikos; wild boar, goat and other mountain creatures are recommended.
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Sopotseli
This relaxing taverna along Dilofo's square serves up hearty portions of grilled Greek meats and very fresh salads.
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