Entertainment in Northern Greece
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Art House
Go up the old stair and open the door to the party at standing-room-only Art House, full of dark curves and Vulcan tints in the arches, mottled walls and worn wood floors. Music is funk and Eurohouse, the clientele mid-twenties.
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Loxias
Thessaloniki's first bookstore-ouzerie, Loxias is that great rarity, a café with culture. Educated Greeks started gravitating years ago to this whimsical steki (hangout) to discuss philosophy or literature over ouzo and snacks. Loxias is decorated with wine casks, bursting bookshelves in the basement shop, and photos of Greek writers, Montenegrin princesses and the dervishes of old Hania.
Charismatic owner Ioannis Kyprianidis has revived the old Thessaloniki tradition of the bookshop as a place for ideas - assisted by Greek firewater and good European beers, of course. Romantics can duck the commotion out on the back balcony's table for two, which overlooks Roman ruins.
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Baccara Bar Restaurant
A sure sign that a city has arrived is when it spawns fully formed temples to conspicuous consumption. The see-and-be-seen Baccara, with its cavernous interior, fusion menu and tropical fishtank that runs the length of the entire back wall, is such a place. There's no middle ground; you'll either detest it or be impressed.
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Flou
What the French call Bobo (bohemian bourgoise, darling) characterises this cosy bar on a White Tower sidestreet. Exuding neon and a je ne sais quoi eclectic retro décor, Flou gets packed on weekends with an early-thirties crowd and plays a shameless selection of vintage pop.
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Kafe Nikis 35
Another waterfront bar, but much more stylish than the generic ones around it, this snug, friendly café just under street level is perfect for a Sunday morning macchiato. Get a window table and feel the dappled sunlight dancing through the blinds.
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Frontzou Politeia
Find superlative views of the city, lake and mountain opposite at this relaxed café 2km up on Ioannina's western hill. Lean back in its plush, colourful couches and enjoy a cool coffee drink on a warm summer morning, or a mixed one by night.
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Beer Academy
A beer or five in Kalamaria is just what the doctor ordered on an unproductive Thessaloniki afternoon. It takes time, after all, to sample the very substantial offerings at Thessaloniki's trend-setting biraria (beer bar).
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Extra Blatt
For beer lovers who don't want to truck all the way to Kalamaria, this very central bar/restaurant has an impressive range of European and even American beers. The décor is nothing special, but it's the beer that counts.
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Presveia
True beer lovers, there is hope. Draught Guinness is relatively hard to find in Greece, as are the 100 or so other beers available at this cosy pub popular with students. Oh, and the food is really good too.
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Ananta
With its shadows and a long bar set under an upward-curving, bare stone ceiling, the Ananta smacks of a Franciscan monastery - albeit one powered by rock music and alcohol.
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Elvis
This DJ bar on the waterfront plays more interesting music than most of Nikis' bars; next door Thermaïkos is a hipster standby that gets full and hypnotic late.
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Pyli Axiou
For a somewhat baser experience of contemporary Greek culture, give in to the frenetic, bouzouki-driven fun at one of Thessaloniki's most popular bouzoukia.
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Flip Side
A throwback to the '50s and '60s with lithograph Warhol deco and vintage poster art, Flip Side is a fun, relaxed rock bar near Aristotelous.
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Santé
This merry bar is a relaxed, stylish nightspot with Brazilian flair, and invigorating live music, like smokin' blues bands, on weekends.
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Malt & Jazz
Another live-music haven, Malt & Jazz has mainly jazz, but sometimes world music bands. Call after eight to find out who's on.
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I Prinkipos
This big coffeehouse is beside the Turkish Consulate, up on Agiou Dimitriou. It's ideal for a Greek coffee and backgammon.
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Verdi
The last on Svolou's café row, Verdi has a spiffy wood-trim interior, cosy tables and a vaguely French attraction.
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Filistro Café
For a splendid spot of tea or afternoon liqueur, drop in to this classic, vividly painted Kastro café.
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Émigré
Next to Verdi, popular Émigré serves good espressos accompanied by crumbly cookies.
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National Theatre of Northern Greece
This theatre presents classical Greek drama and more modern theatrical works.
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Lido
Thessaloniki's big, mean disco machine, Lido is an enormous nightclub playing R&B, house and more. Like most nightclubs, in summer it operates out on the airport road.
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