Things to do in Northeastern Aegean Islands
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archaeological museum
The archaeological museum contains sculptures, pottery and coins dating from the Neolithic period.
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O Diavlos
What first attracts the eye in this unique ouzerie set in a lofty, wood-beamed building is the artwork lining the walls. Monthly exhibits show off local artist's works, which diners can purchase; might the next Theophilos be discovered here? However, aside from being an art lover, Diavlos owner Panayiotis Molyviatis crafts what might just be the most satisfying and nourishing mezedhes in all of Lesvos.
Local specialities include giouslemes (a crunchy cheese pie) and sfongatoa (a sort of oven-baked cake made of zucchini, egg, onion and cheese). Try also the Turkish-flavoured beef kebabs on pita bread with onions and yiaourtlou kebab (Greek yogurt). Music ranges from relaxe…
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Teriade Museum
From the northernmost section of Pavlou Kountourioti, take a local bus 4km south of Mytilini to the village of Varia, where an unexpected treasure awaits: the Teriade Museum, with its astonishing collection of paintings by world-renowned artists like Picasso, Chagall, Miro, Le Corbusier and Matisse. The museum honours the Lesvos-born artist and critic Stratis Eleftheriadis, who Gallicised his name to Teriade in Paris.
Teriade was instrumental in bringing the work of primitive painter and fellow Lesvos native Theophilos to international attention.
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Archaeological Museum
Thasos' archaeological museum, next to the ancient agora at the Old Harbour, caused a stir when it reopened after a lengthy hiatus. Moreover, it keeps expanding, with the most recent new additions being Neolithic utensils and other finds from a mysterious tomb in central Thasos. Exhibitions from the classic period spotlight Theagenes, an Olympic champion of the 5th century BC. However, the 5m-tall 6th-century BC kouros carrying a ram looms largest.
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Mezedopoleion Palaio Petrino
The only reason to lament Chios' wonderfully warm weather, perhaps, is that diners never have to sit indoors and enjoy the Palaio Petrino's splendidly painted interior. No matter, the food is good enough to enjoy inside or out. Try the tyrokafteri (spicy cheese dip) and ktapodi krasato (octopus in wine sauce) with some hearty Northern Aegean wine.
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Lemoni kai Prasino Piperi
The poshest place in town, this upstairs restaurant has great waterfront views and even better food, especially the Italian dishes. Try the simple yet exquisite tomato and mozzarella salad and tagliatelle amatriciana or tagliatelle alfredo with salmon. As expected, the wine list is deep; the Mexican offerings, however, remain somewhat of an unknown commodity.
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Grand Café
Perhaps the best regular bar in Thasos (Limenas), the Grand Café has soft corner couches and caters to a mixed Greek/international crowd. In the same area as the town's few nightclubs, it's visible from its checkerboard pillars out the front. Friendly owner Dimitris Dimitriadis insists he was not named after the street on which his bar is located.
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Stou Mihali
It's getting hard to find a free table at lunch at this tasty and inexpensive place serving mayirefta. Unlike many other such eateries, here you can combine half-portions and thus enjoy more variety. Everything is good; try the soutzoukakia (tomato-soaked beef rissoles), imam baïldi (roast eggplant) and Greek salad.
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Theofilos Museum
The Theofilos Museum, located next door, houses works commissioned by Teriade; several prestigious Greek museums and galleries display other more famous paintings of Theophilos, whose story followed the old pattern of many a great artist - living in abject poverty, painting coffee-house walls for his daily bread and eventually dying in the gutter.
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Acropolis
From the ancient theatre a path leads up to the acropolis of ancient Thasos, where substantial remains of a medieval fortress stand on the foundations of the town's ancient walls and where magnificent views of the coast can be had. A carved rock staircase descends to the ancient wall's foundations. The Limenas-Panagia road is close by.
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Ouranos
A popular ouzerie that looks across at Turkey from a breezy patio on the ancient northern port. Tempting mezedhes include kolokythoanthi (fried pumpkin flowers stuffed with rice), ladotyri mytilinis (the oil-drenched local cheese) and hefty servings of some of the most enormous calamari in the Mediterranean.
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O Antonis
An institution with the locals, this simple ouzerie is 2km from the town centre, on a breezy hill top offering sublime views of the sea and Mytilini town. Try the koutavakia (fried baby shark), sardines and kolios (mackerel). O Antonis has only a few tables, and fills up on weekends and after 20:00.
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Ouzeri Tzivaeri
The sort of food strong enough to soak up ouzo (the Tzivaeri serves 10 kinds) is dished out at this friendly portside eatery. You might need a cast-iron gut to lay into oil-drenched, sun-dried tomatoes, grilled cod strips and traditional Chios sausages - but then again, that's what a good ouzerie is all about.
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Filippos Argentis Museum
The idiosyncratic Filippos Argentis Museum, in the same building as the impressive Korais Library, contains embroideries, traditional costumes and portraits of the wealthy Argenti family. Born in Marseilles in 1891, Argentis devoted his life to researching the history of Chios and wrote many significant works.
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Mytilini Fortress
Mytilini Fortress - Mytilini's imposing, early Byzantine fortress was renovated in the 14th century by Genoese overlord Francisco Gatelouzo, and later the Turks enlarged it again. It's popular for a stroll and the surrounding pine forest is perfect for picnics.
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Church of Agios Therapon
The bulbous dome of the Church of Agios Therapon crowns Mytilini's skyline, and is visible from almost everywhere on the waterfront. The church's ornate interior boasts a huge chandelier, an intricately carved iconostasis, priest's throne and a frescoed dome.
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Simi
At first glance, Simi looks like all the other Old Harbour tavernas with touting waiters; however, locals agree that it's the best place in town for fresh fish. A full menu of other food, including mezedhes and meat, is also offered.
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Lesvos Shop
This waterfront shop near the Hotel Sappho has all of Lesvos' distinctive natural products, from ouzos and olive oil and soap to jams, handmade ceramics, and local wine and cheese. Proceeds benefit the municipality.
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New Archaeological Museum
The ticket grants entry to the new archaeological museum, 400m away, which portrays island life from the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD. Spectacular floor mosaics under glass are among the highlights here.
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Beer Academy
This branch of the popular Thessaloniki watering hole is a welcome alternative to most bars' Greek holy trinity of Amstel, Heineken and Mythos, with over 30 brews representing Boston to Belgium and beyond.
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Sfetoudi Bookshop
Sells good maps from Greece's leading Rd Editions series; books on Lesvos include 39 Coffee Houses and a Barber's Shop, a beautiful photo narrative by eminent local photographer Jelly Hadjidimitriou.
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I Pigi Grill Room
This friendly, central restaurant next to a spring can seem to blend in with other nearby eateries, but is a cut above when it comes to Greek meats; seafood mezedhes and fresh salads are good, too.
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To Meliotiko Ouzeri
Some Chians live in fear of the immense portions ladled out at the Meliotiko; this no-nonsense stronghold of the Greek culinary pantheon is where you fill your stomach while waiting for the ferry.
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Byzantine Museum
Closed at the time of writing, the Byzantine Museum is housed in a former mosque, the Medjitie Djami. It's collection of sculptures date from the 14th- to 15th-century Genoese occupation.
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Ancient Theatre
Near the ancient agora, the ancient theatre stages performances of ancient dramas and comedies as part of the Kavala Festival of Drama. The theatre is signposted from the small harbour.
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