Things to do in Mytilini Town
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O Diavlos
What first attracts the eye in this unique ouzerie set in a lofty, wood-beamed building is the artwork lining the walls. Monthly exhibits show off local artist's works, which diners can purchase; might the next Theophilos be discovered here? However, aside from being an art lover, Diavlos owner Panayiotis Molyviatis crafts what might just be the most satisfying and nourishing mezedhes in all of Lesvos.
Local specialities include giouslemes (a crunchy cheese pie) and sfongatoa (a sort of oven-baked cake made of zucchini, egg, onion and cheese). Try also the Turkish-flavoured beef kebabs on pita bread with onions and yiaourtlou kebab (Greek yogurt). Music ranges from relaxe…
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Teriade Museum
From the northernmost section of Pavlou Kountourioti, take a local bus 4km south of Mytilini to the village of Varia, where an unexpected treasure awaits: the Teriade Museum, with its astonishing collection of paintings by world-renowned artists like Picasso, Chagall, Miro, Le Corbusier and Matisse. The museum honours the Lesvos-born artist and critic Stratis Eleftheriadis, who Gallicised his name to Teriade in Paris.
Teriade was instrumental in bringing the work of primitive painter and fellow Lesvos native Theophilos to international attention.
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Lemoni kai Prasino Piperi
The poshest place in town, this upstairs restaurant has great waterfront views and even better food, especially the Italian dishes. Try the simple yet exquisite tomato and mozzarella salad and tagliatelle amatriciana or tagliatelle alfredo with salmon. As expected, the wine list is deep; the Mexican offerings, however, remain somewhat of an unknown commodity.
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Stou Mihali
It's getting hard to find a free table at lunch at this tasty and inexpensive place serving mayirefta. Unlike many other such eateries, here you can combine half-portions and thus enjoy more variety. Everything is good; try the soutzoukakia (tomato-soaked beef rissoles), imam baïldi (roast eggplant) and Greek salad.
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Theofilos Museum
The Theofilos Museum, located next door, houses works commissioned by Teriade; several prestigious Greek museums and galleries display other more famous paintings of Theophilos, whose story followed the old pattern of many a great artist - living in abject poverty, painting coffee-house walls for his daily bread and eventually dying in the gutter.
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Ouranos
A popular ouzerie that looks across at Turkey from a breezy patio on the ancient northern port. Tempting mezedhes include kolokythoanthi (fried pumpkin flowers stuffed with rice), ladotyri mytilinis (the oil-drenched local cheese) and hefty servings of some of the most enormous calamari in the Mediterranean.
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O Antonis
An institution with the locals, this simple ouzerie is 2km from the town centre, on a breezy hill top offering sublime views of the sea and Mytilini town. Try the koutavakia (fried baby shark), sardines and kolios (mackerel). O Antonis has only a few tables, and fills up on weekends and after 20:00.
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Mytilini Fortress
Mytilini Fortress - Mytilini's imposing, early Byzantine fortress was renovated in the 14th century by Genoese overlord Francisco Gatelouzo, and later the Turks enlarged it again. It's popular for a stroll and the surrounding pine forest is perfect for picnics.
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Church of Agios Therapon
The bulbous dome of the Church of Agios Therapon crowns Mytilini's skyline, and is visible from almost everywhere on the waterfront. The church's ornate interior boasts a huge chandelier, an intricately carved iconostasis, priest's throne and a frescoed dome.
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Lesvos Shop
This waterfront shop near the Hotel Sappho has all of Lesvos' distinctive natural products, from ouzos and olive oil and soap to jams, handmade ceramics, and local wine and cheese. Proceeds benefit the municipality.
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New Archaeological Museum
The ticket grants entry to the new archaeological museum, 400m away, which portrays island life from the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD. Spectacular floor mosaics under glass are among the highlights here.
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Sfetoudi Bookshop
Sells good maps from Greece's leading Rd Editions series; books on Lesvos include 39 Coffee Houses and a Barber's Shop, a beautiful photo narrative by eminent local photographer Jelly Hadjidimitriou.
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Archaeological Museum
The archaeological museum, one block north of the quay, has impressive finds from Neolithic to Roman times, including ceramic, somersaulting female figurines and gold jewellery.
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Kalderimi
Inconspicuously set on a shaded side lane, Kalderimi is another popular Mytilini ouzerie; try the tasty salted mackerel and sardines and fried zucchini flowers.
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Mousiko Kafenio
This relaxed, arty student café just in from the waterfront is full of colour, with eclectic paintings, mirrors and well-worn wooden fixtures.
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To Navagio
A popular café-bar on Plateia Sapphou with comfy couches, perfect for a leisurely backgammon game and coffee.
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Ocean 11
This breezy patio café offers sweet frozen coffees by day, and becomes a slick and shiny bar by night.
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Hot Spot
This intimate student bar has a warmer feel than its neighbours and plays more rock and roll.
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Byzantine Museum
The Byzantine Museum in the Church of Agios Therapon's courtyard has valuable icons.
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Ocean 11
This breezy patio café offers sweet frozen coffees by day, and becomes a slick and shiny bar by night.
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