Things to do in Ithaki
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Anogi
The crumbling hilltop village of Anogi was once the island's capital; today the main square (and its elderly inhabitants) seem from another era. The restored 12th-century church of Agia Panagia has amazing Byzantine frescoes and a Venetian bell tower. Visit the neighbouring kafeneio (coffee house) and speak to the owner; he is the proud keeper of the keys.
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Fountain of Arethousa
There's a lot of hype about the sites connected to Homer's tale, and finding them can be an epic journey (signage is scant). The most renowned site is the Fountain of Arethousa, south of Vathy, where Odysseus' swineherd, Eumaeus, brought his pigs to drink. The isolated, shadeless trek, through unspoilt landscape with great sea views, takes around 3hr return.
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Kioni
The pretty little village of Kioni may be one of Ithaki's better-kept secrets. It's draped around a verdant hillside spilling down to a picturesque miniature harbour where yachties congregate. Tavernas, bars and flower-bedecked buildings will have you reaching for your camera. For swimming, seek out the small, pebbly bays between Kioni and Frikes, 4km away.
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