Things to do in Astypalea
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Kastro
Heading west of Skala you hit the big Astypalea outback. Here is a land of gnarled, bare and rolling hills with scarcely a sealed road to speak of. It's all driveable (just), but you'll need a solid 4WD or off-road motorcycle. An access road peels upwards northwesterly from Skala and follows the hill ridges past Psili Vigla to a road junction at Stavros after 6km. Head north and follow the sign to the so-called Kastro , which is reached via a detour after another 2km.
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Tallaras Roman Baths
Analipsi (also known as Maltezana) is 7km beyond Marmari in a fertile valley on the isthmus. A former Maltese pirates' lair, it's a scattered, pleasantly laid-back settlement with a long sand and pebble beach, shaded by more ever-welcoming tamarisk trees. The water is clean and shallow. There are the remains of the Tallaras Roman Baths with mosaics on the settlement's outskirts.
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Sti Linda
From the Stavros junction a rough track winds upwards to the shepherd's hut on the mountain spine and then an extremely rough track (take care) winds downwards to Kaminakia beach, where there is a good seasonal restaurant, Sti Linda, which rustles up hearty fish soups, oven-baked goat and home-made bread.
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Trapezakia Exo
There are a handful places to eat at Livadi - all strung out along the tree-shaded waterfront. Trapezakia Exo is a neat little snack bar-cum-restaurant at the western end of the beach strip. Snap up a fast sandwich, enjoy the cuttlefish speciality or check out the daily specials menu.
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Astakos
Astakos, just over the headland at Schinontas, is perhaps the best choice of very few options in the area. Try the strapatsada (wild-greens mélange mixed with egg yolk) or the bourloto (spicy oven baked cheese).
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Astropelos
Astropelos serves a small but imaginative range of dishes. There is the pricey pasta with lobster or grilled giant prawns and a cheaper fried calamari option. It's worth it for its shaded beach-front patio as much as for its cuisine.
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Galini Café
At remote Mesa Vathy hamlet you can fish for your lunch or dine at the laid-back Galini Café , which offers meat and fish grills and the odd oven-baked special.
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