Arriving in Agathonisi’s harbour – enclosed by a fjordlike formation and the buildings so few you could count them in a breath – is pure magic. So far off the tourist radar its neighbours barely acknowledge it, Agathonisi is quiet enough to hear a distant Cyclops break wind. There’s little to do here but read, swim, explore the island's caves (once used by islanders to hide from pirates) and then restart the formula. Accommodation is mainly in the harbour village of Agios Georgios.
Keep an eye out too for the Klidonas ritual of jumping through fire to cleanse your spirit.