Sights in Cyclades
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Ancient Delos
The following is an outline of some significant archaeological remains on the site. For further details, a guidebook from the ticket office is advised, or take a guided tour.
The rock-encrusted Mt Kythnos (113m) rises elegantly to the southeast of the harbour. It's worth the steep climb, even in the heat. On clear days there are terrific views of the surrounding islands from its summit.
The path to Mt Kythnos is reached by walking through the Theatre Quarter, where Delos' wealthiest inhabitants once built their houses. These houses surrounded peristyle courtyards, with colourful mosaics (a status symbol) being the most striking feature of each house.
The most lavish dwellin…
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Halki
The picturesque village of Halki lies at the heart of the Tragaea, a vast plain of olive groves and unspoilt villages, dotted with Byzantine churches. Halki is a must for its handsome villas, kitron (citron liqueur) distillery and enthralling ceramics gallery-shop, L'Olivier. Refuel in the shady town square and pop into Era for locally made sweets and jams.
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Mylopotas Beach
The busiest and most popular beach on Ios used to be littered with people sleeping rough to avoid paying for accommodation. It's still busy and parties still prevail, but sleeping here is no longer allowed. Popular for good reason, the beach is long, sandy and safe, with a good smattering of watersports centres, cafes and places to stay.
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Moni Hozoviotissis
Amorgos is defined by the iconic Moni Hozoviotissis, a dazzling white building embedded in an awesome cliff face high above the sea. It lies on the precipitous east coast below Hora. A few monks still live here and short tours, which usually end with a pleasant chat with one of the monks, take place sporadically, usually when a reasonable number of visitors have gathered at the door of the monastery. The tour is free but donations are appreciated.
The monastery contains a miraculous icon that was found in the sea below the cliff. It got there (allegedly unaided) from Asia Minor, Cyprus or Jerusalem - depending on which legend you're told. Out of respect, modest dress is e…
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Ancient Akrotiri
Akrotiri was a Minoan outpost; excavations begun in 1967 have uncovered an ancient city beneath the volcanic ash. Buildings, some three storeys high, date to the late 16th century BC. The absence of skeletons and treasures indicates that inhabitants were forewarned of the eruption and escaped.
For some time the site has been visually disappointing, its overall context blurred by the construction of a 'bio-climatic' roof aimed at protecting the ruins from damaging climatic effects. Masses of scaffolding and concrete supports create the impression of a construction zone or, indeed, an earthquake site. The historical drama of Akrotiri is still potent, though. It's best to g…
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Vallindras Distillery
One of Naxos' finest experiences is a visit to the historic village of Halki, which lies at the heart of the Tragaea, about 20 minutes' drive from Naxos town. Halki is a vivid reflection of historic Naxos and is full of the handsome façades of old villas and tower houses, legacy of a rich past as the one-time centre of Naxian commerce. Since the late 19th century Halki has had strong connections with the production of kitron, a delicious liqueur.
The Vallindras Distillery in Halki's main square, still distils kitron the old-fashioned way. There are free tours of the old distillery's atmospheric rooms, which still contain ancient jars and copper stills. Kitron tastings ro…
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Ancient Delos
Despite its diminutive size, the World Heritage-listed Delos is one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece, and certainly the most important in the Cyclades. This sacred island is the mythical birthplace of the twins Apollo and Artemis. A climb up the rocky Mt Kythnos will give you a terrific view of the surrounding islands on a clear day.
One of many highlights is the Sanctuary of Apollo, to the north of the harbour, which contains temples dedicated to the main man of Delos, as well as the much-photographed Terrace of the Lions. These proud beasts, carved from marble, were offerings from the people of Naxos, presented to Delos in the 7th century BC to guard…
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Cave of Zeus
From Filoti, you can reach the Cave of Zeus, a large natural cavern at the foot of a cliff on the slopes of Mt Zeus. There's a junction signposted Aria Spring and Zas Cave, about 800m south of Filoti. If travelling by bus, ask to be dropped off here. The side road ends in 1.2km. From the road-end parking, follow a walled path past the Aria Spring, a fountain and picnic area, and continue uphill to reach the cave. The path leads on from here to the summit of Zas.
It's quite a stiff hike of about 3km. A good way to return to Filoti, taking another 4km, is to follow the path that leads north from the summit. This is not a mere stroll, so be fit and come equipped with good fo…
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Bazeos Castle
The handsome towerlike building of Bazeos Castle stands prominently in the landscape about 2km east of the village of Sangri. The castle was built in its original form as the Monastery of Timios Stavros (True Cross) during the 17th century, but monks abandoned the site in the early 19th century. It was later bought by the Bazeos family, whose modern descendants have refurbished the building and its fascinating late-medieval rooms with great skill and imagination.
The castle now functions as a cultural centre and stages art exhibitions and the annual Naxos Festival during July and August, when concerts, plays and literary readings are held. The price of admission to these …
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Plateia Miaouli
At the heart of Ermoupolis, the lively and likeable main town of Syros lies the great square of Plateia Miaouli, the finest urban space in the Cyclades. Once the sea reached this spot, but today the square is located well inland and is flanked by palm trees and lined along its south side by cafés and bars, some of them engagingly seedy.
The north side of the square is dominated by the magnificent neoclassical town hall. The small archaeological museum at the rear, founded in 1834 and one of the oldest in Greece, houses a tiny collection of ceramic and marble vases, grave stelae and some very fine Cycladic figurines.
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Archaeology Museum
Apiranthos is an atmospheric mountain village of unadorned stone houses, marble-paved streets and alleyways that scramble up the slopes of Mt Fanari. Its inhabitants are descendants of refugees who fled Crete to escape Turkish repression; they retain a strong individuality and a rich dialect, and the village has always been noted for its spirited politics and populism. The village has an impressive trio of museums.
The Archaeology Museum is part-way along the main street. It has a marvellous collection of small Cycladian artefacts. Admission free.
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Exobourgo fortress
The ruins of the Venetian fortress of Exobourgo, atop a 640m (2099ft) hill, stand sentinel over a cluster of unspoilt villages. At the fortress, built on an ancient acropolis, the Venetians made their last stand against the Turks in 1715.
The ascent can be made from several villages; from Volox head south past the Koumaras turn-off on the road to Steni, then go right up a side road that ends at a church. From here it's a steep but reasonable 15-minute walk to the summit where the view will take away whatever breath you have left.
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Museum of Natural History
Apiranthos is an atmospheric mountain village of unadorned stone houses, marble-paved streets and alleyways that scramble up the slopes of Mt Fanari. Its inhabitants are descendants of refugees who fled Crete to escape Turkish repression; they retain a strong individuality and a rich dialect, and the village has always been noted for its spirited politics and populism. The village has an impressive trio of museums. On the main road, to the right of the start of the village's main street, is the Museum of Natural History .
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Church of Panagia Evangelistria
The neoclassical Church of Panagia Evangelistria is built of marble from the island's Panormos quarries. The complex lies within a pleasant courtyard flanked by cool arcades. Inside the main building the acclaimed icon of the Holy Virgin is draped with gold, silver, jewels and pearls, and is surrounded by gifts from supplicants. A hanging garden of fabulous chandeliers and lampholders fills the roof space.
Within the church complex, several museums house religious artefacts, icons and secular artworks.
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Geology Museum
Apiranthos is an atmospheric mountain village of unadorned stone houses, marble-paved streets and alleyways that scramble up the slopes of Mt Fanari. Its inhabitants are descendants of refugees who fled Crete to escape Turkish repression; they retain a strong individuality and a rich dialect, and the village has always been noted for its spirited politics and populism. The village has an impressive trio of museums. The Geology Museum is part-way along the main street
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Cathedral of Agia Triada
Lovely Lefkes clings to a natural amphitheatre amid hills whose summits are dotted with old windmills. Siesta is taken seriously here, and the village has a general air of serenity. It lies 9km southeast of Parikia, high among the hills, and was capital of Paros during the Middle Ages. The village's main attractions are its pristine alleyways and buildings. The Cathedral of Agia Triada is an impressive building that's shaded by olive trees.
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Kataphyki
From Hora there's a pleasant 5km walk south to Dryopida, a picturesque town of red-tiled roofs and winding streets clustered steeply on either side of a ravine. It's home to a remarkable cave called Kataphyki that extends for 600m. Much work has been carried out to make the cave accessible, but things seem to have stalled at the time of writing. You're best to cover the 5km back by road to Merihas by bus or taxi.
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Moni Episkopis
From the saddle between Kastro and Hora, a surfaced road leads southwest to Episkopi. The remains here are believed to be those of a 3rd-century-AD Roman mausoleum that was transformed into a church in the 7th century and then became Moni Episkopis 10 centuries later. From here you can climb to a little church and ancient ruins perched on a precipice to the south, from where the views are spectacular.
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Church of Pantanassa
Kastro, so named from an original Venetian fortress of the 13th century of which little physical sign remains, is a charming place, with winding alleyways between brilliant white houses. At its heart is the main square with a central war memorial surrounded by peaceful old buildings, one with ornate stone window-frames and -sills long since whitewashed over. On one side is the Church of Pantanassa .
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Kouros
Coachloads of day-trippers come to see the gargantuan 6th-century BC kouros (male statue) that lies in an ancient marble quarry a short walk from Apollonas, on the north coast (both the inland and coastal routes from Naxos Town are spectacular). This 10.5m statue apparently represents Dionysos, and may have been abandoned, unfinished, because it cracked.
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Archaeology Museum
Housed in a handsome neoclassical building, this museum contains some riveting (albeit haphazardly labelled) exhibits, including a plaster cast of the Venus de Milo that was made by craftsmen from Paris' Louvre museum (as a sort of Venus de Mea Culpa perhaps?). Best of all is a perky little herd of tiny bull figurines from the Late Cycladic period.
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Archaeological Museum
Here you can see a fragment of the 4th-century Parian Chronicle, listing the most outstanding artistic achievements of ancient Greece. Discovered in the 17th century, most of it ended up in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford. Typically, some of the most exquisite pieces are only plaster casts - the originals having long since been 'displaced' to museums abroad.
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Christian Catacombs
Milos is home to Greece's only Christian catacombs, which date from the 1st century and were the burial site for early believers. Nearby are Roman ruins, including a well-preserved ancient amphitheatre (site of the two-day Milos Festival each July). Follow the signs to the rather forlorn spot nearby where a farmer found the Venus de Milo in 1820.
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Hora
The island's capital is the concealed clifftop Hora, one of the Cyclades' most appealing villages. With pretty little churches and a medieval kastro filled with whitewashed houses draped in bougainvillea, the village draws you in to its meandering (traffic-free) main street that drifts happily from leafy square to leafy square. Atmospheric eateries abound.
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Panagia Ekatontapyliani
Dating from AD 326, this is one of the most splendid churches in the Cyclades. The building consists of three churches: Agios Nikolaos, with superb columns of marble and a carved iconostasis; the Church of Our Lady and the Baptistry. The name means Our Lady of the Hundred Gates, but this is a wishful rounding up of a still-impressive tally of doorways.
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