The old capital of Hora sparkles like a snowdrift across its rocky ridge. It’s capped by a 13th-century kastro and guarded by windmills that stand sentinel on the surrounding cliffs. There’s a veneer of sophistication, not least in the handful of fashionable bars and stores that enhance Hora’s appeal without eroding its timelessness.
Heading south of Hora, the road hugs the plunging east coast. The turning for Agia Anna Beach is the same as for Moni Hozoviotissis. The beach is popular for its starring role in the French film Le Grand Bleu. It's dramatic (and photogenic, with a whitewashed chapel), but it's tiny and rocky; the car park is bigger.