Things to do in Rethymno
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Yiorgos Hatziparaskos
One of the last traditional filo masters in all of Greece, Yiorgos Hatziparaskos still makes super-fine pastry by hand in his traditional workshop. The highlight is when he throws the dough into a giant bubble before stretching it over a huge table. His wife Katerina encourages passers-by to watch the spectacle and try some of best baklava and kataifi they will ever eat.
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Lemonokipos
Dine among the lemon trees in the lovely courtyard of this well-respected taverna in the old quarter. It's good, typical Cretan fare, with a decent range of vegetarian dishes and lots of tasty appetisers.
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Othonas
The touristy-on-the-outside but decent Othonas is recommended for traditional Cretan food. It's a member of Concred and uses quality produce.
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Fortezza
Rethymno's 16th-century fortezza is on the site of the city's ancient acropolis. Within its massive walls a great number of buildings once stood, of which only a church and a mosque survive intact. The ramparts offer good views, while the site has lots of ruins to explore. The main gate is opposite the Archaeological Museum on the eastern side of the fortress, but there were once two other gates on the western and northern sides for the delivery of supplies and ammunition.
In summer it is a stunning concert venue for the Renaissance Festival.
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Archaeological Museum
The small Archaeological Museum , near the entrance to the fortress, was once a prison. The exhibits are well labelled in English and contain Neolithic tools, Minoan pottery excavated from nearby tombs, Mycenaean figurines and a 1st-century-AD relief of Aphrodite, as well as an important coin collection. There are also some excellent examples of blown glass from the classical period. Various displays outline the history of archaeological excavations in the region.
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Centre for Byzantine Art
The Centre for Byzantine Art is a great example of a restored Venetian-Turkish mansion and has exhibitions, workshops and a terrace café with great views of the old town. Other Turkish legacies in the old quarter include the Kara Musa Pasha Mosque, which has a vaulted fountain, and the Nerantzes Mosque, which was converted from a Franciscan church in 1657.
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Avli
This former Venetian villa is the place for a romantic evening out, or at least one with maximum ambience. The nouveau-Cretan-style food is superb and there's an idyllic garden courtyard bursting with pots of herbs, bougainvillea canopies, fruit trees and works of art. The sleek wine bar in the adjacent old stables boasts more than 400 Greek wines.
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Prima Plora
This stylish modern restaurant on the developing beachfront strip on the western side of town is worth the hike. It has an exceptional setting with tables right on the water near an old Venetian water pump with views of the fortezza. It has a sophisticated menu of top-quality seafood dishes such as prawn risotto, and uses organic vegetables.
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Zisi's
Locals swear by Zisi's for cheap, quality Cretan food, particularly the charcoal-grilled meats and the 25 or so daily trays of home-style dishes. It's a little out of town along the stretch of beachfront hotels and resorts (on right just before the Creta Palace), but is worth the trip. Kids will love the playground.
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Porto Guora
At the southern end of Ethnikis Antistaseos is the well-preserved Porto Guora or Great Gate, a remnant of the defensive wall that was once topped with the symbol of Venice: the Lion of St Mark, now in the Archaeological Museum. Around the Porto Guora lies a network of old streets built by the Venetians and rebuilt by the Turks.
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Thalassografia
This excellent mezedopoleio is the place to watch the sun set and try some fine mezedes, as well as a few pastas and more hearty meals. It's a casual place with a breathtaking setting under the fortezza, taking in views over the sea. The grilled sardines are excellent, as are the creamy mushrooms.
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Dolphin Cruises
Rethymno is well placed for boat excursions. Along the harbourfront there are several companies that offer boat trips, including Dolphin Cruises, which offers three-hour trips on the 'pirate ship' to nearby caves, Panormo and Bali, all-day trips to Marathi beach, and fishing trips on a speedboat.
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Fanari
West of the Venetian harbour, this welcoming waterfront taverna serves good mezedes, fresh fish and Cretan cuisine. The bekri mezes (pork with wine and peppers) is excellent, or try the local speciality, apaki (smoked pork). The homemade wine is decent, too.
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Mona Liza
At Mona Liza, around the corner from the Loggia, Nikos Skartsilakis is legendary for his 'crema' ice cream made from sheep's milk, as well as his excellent sweets. Try the galaktoboureko (custard pastries), the walnut pie, or vrahaki, chocolate with almonds.
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Municipal Art Gallery
The Municipal Art Gallery near the fortezza houses a permanent exhibition of works by Rethymno painter Lefteris Kanakakis, as well as contemporary Greek artists since 1950. It is part of the Centre for Contemporary Art, which holds periodic exhibitions.
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Hellenic Conservatory
The Nerantzes Mosque (converted from a Franciscan church in 1657) now houses the Hellenic Conservatory and makes a lovely venue for concerts and recitals. The management is happy for you to have a look around. The building's minaret was built in 1890.
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Venetian Harbour
Rethymno's tiny Venetian harbour is crammed with fish tavernas and cafés fronted by touts, but you can get a better sense of it by walking along the old harbour walls past the fishing boats to the landmark lighthouse, built later by the Turks.
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Historical & Folk Art Museum
Rethymno's Historical & Folk Art Museum gives an excellent overview of the area's rural lifestyle, with its collection of clothing, baskets, weavings and farm tools, and useful explanatory labels. It is in a lovely historic Venetian building.
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Rimondi Fountain
Pride of place among the many vestiges of Venetian rule goes to the Rimondi Fountain with its spouting lion heads and Corinthian capitals, built first in 1588 and rebuilt in 1626 by a rector of the city, A Rimondi.
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Baja Beach Club
On the old highway east of the town, this massive beach bar is like a tropical paradise with palm trees and bars around a big pool. At night it morphs into a happening club. The turn-off is just before the bridge.
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Samaria
Of the waterfront tavernas, this is one of the few where you'll see local families eating. There's a large range of mayirefta (casseroles), and the soups and grills are excellent.
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Loggia
A major town landmark is the 16th-century Loggia, a Venetian version of a gentleman's club. It was once a meeting house for Venetian nobility, and is now a museum shop selling good-quality reproductions.
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En Hordais
This tiny store, packed with handmade musical instruments, is the place to get that Cretan lyra (a three-stringed instrument similar to a violin), bouzouki or other Greek musical instruments.
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Taverna Kyria Maria
This good-value traditional taverna behind the Rimondi Fountain has outdoor seating and birdcages hanging from the leafy trellis. Meals normally end with a complimentary dessert and shot of raki.
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Nikiforos
It may lack the atmosphere of the old town, but this traditional mayireio in the new town churns out trays of home-style cooking for hungry locals and does a decent takeaway trade.
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