It's worth the drive through the spectacular Kotsifou Gorge to eat hearty home-style Cretan food in the village of Kanevos, in a lovely setting with the gorge on one side and a forest on the other. This place is renowned for its excellent food, and Maria is happy to show you the tempting array of pots in the kitchen (between 20 and 25 dishes each day). The meat is mostly their own produce and they sell their own wine, olive oil and raki.