If your five-year-old has lost interest in Venetian architecture, head to the public garden between Tzanakaki and Dimokratias, where there's a playground, a small zoo with two resident kri-kri (Cretan goat) and a shady café. Eight kilometres south of town the giant water park Limnoupolis has enough slides and rides to keep kids amused and cafés and pool bars for adults. Buses leave regularly from the KTEL bus station.