Just above the small square you'll probably see local black-clad gents under the mulberry tree of the old-style Kafeneio, where apart from the local myzithropita (cheese pie) with honey you can normally get a basic meal like local sausage, or on weekends traditional wild goat or lamb tsigariasto or vrasto (boiled), charged by the kilo. And lots of raki.

For a glimpse of traditional Sfakian village life, it is worth veering right off the main road to arrive at a small square flanked by four kafeneia and statues of local resistance heroes.