Plaka & Anafiotika

Lonely Planet review

The historic neighbourhood under the Acropolis retains its charm despite being overrun by tourists in summer. Head beyond the tourist drag, however, and you'll find the Anafiotika quarter, one of the most picturesque and quiet pockets of the city. In this village-like labyrinth of quiet, narrow, windy streets, bougainvillea cascade over whitewashed Cycladic-style cube houses while bright pots of colour decorate the balconies and rooftops.

Apart from the forever-reclining cats, washing hanging in the breeze is often the only evidence of habitation. The houses were built by tradesmen from the small island of Anafi, brought in to build the king's palace during the renovation of Athens after Independence. The neighbourhood is still home to the descendants of these original Anafi stonemasons, although the population has also been supplemented by artists and intellectuals.

Plaka has many meticulously restored neoclassical houses, and more of the derelict old homes are being revived.

The 17th-century church of Agios Georgios (St George of the Rock) marks the southern border of Anafiotika, with the 1847 church of Agios Simeon situated to the north. The neoclassical building on the corner of Theorias and Klepsidra is the old university of Athens, now a museum.