A passenger boat, the Yapei Queen, runs along Lake Volta between Akosombo and Yeji, stopping at the town of Kete-Krachi and a few villages along the way. In theory it leaves the port at Akosombo at 4pm on Monday and arrives in Yeji on Wednesday morning; in practice the departure and arrival times are more fluid. The southbound service leaves Yeji around 4pm on Wednesday and arrives in Akosombo on Friday morning. Tickets cost US$11/5.50 in 1st/2nd class, and food and drinks are available on board. If you want one of the two 1st-class cabins (recommended), you have to reserve at least two weeks in advance; call 0251-20686 in Akosombo to make a booking.
The best bus service in the country is provided by VanefSTC, the old State Transport Corporation now owned by Greyhound. There are two classes of bus: ordinary and luxury. The latter have air-con and are newer and more comfortable. Compared to other transport in the region it’s fairly reliable, though late departures are all too common. Expect significant delays leaving from the Tudu station in Accra and on any of the less regular routes. Buses link the major centres, including Accra, Kumasi, Takoradi, Cape Coast, Tamale and Bolgatanga. Other operators, which may have the only buses on some routes (such as between Tamale and Mole National Park), include OSA, Kingdom Transport Services (KTS), City Express and GPRTU. The buses tend to be older and less comfortable.
Ghana’s railway links Accra, Kumasi and Takoradi but the trains are much slower and aren’t any cheaper than motorised transport. There are daily passenger services in either direction between Accra and Kumasi (US$4.40/2.70 in 1st/2nd class, about 12 hours) and a nightly service between Accra and Takoradi, which costs about the same and takes at least 12 hours, but these are really only for masochists and train enthusiasts. However, the line between Kumasi and Takoradi (US$4.40/2.70 in 1st/2nd class) is worth considering. On this line, there are two trains daily, leaving at 6am and 8.30pm. The journey in theory takes eight hours but it’s usually more like 12 in practice, especially on the night train.
Two domestic airlines, Citylink (312001; www.citylink.com.gh) and Antrak (21-765337; Antrak House, Danquah Circle, Osu; Kumasi 51-41296; Tamale 71-91075) operate in Ghana. Both have two flights daily between Accra and Kumasi (US$60 to US$80, 45 minutes), and Antrak has flights on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday between Accra and Tamale (US$144, 1½ hours).