Things to do in Germany
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Brass Monkey
On the Altstadt, at the entrance to the bridge side, is a statue of a Brass Monkey holding a mirror and surrounded by mice: touch the mirror for wealth, the outstretched fingers to ensure you return to Heidelberg and the mice to ensure you have many children.
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Grill Royal
A platinum card is a handy accessory at this ‘look-at-me’ temple where A-listers, power politicians, pouty models and ‘trust-afarians’ can be seen slurping oysters and tucking into their prime cuts, including superb regionally raised organic Angus cattle. No complaints about the food quality, the sensibly sensuous decor or the people-watching potential. Service, alas, can be snooty. Riverside tables beckon in fine weather.
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Yorckschlösschen
Cosy and knick-knack-laden, Olaf Dähmlows's institution has been open since 1885 and plied an all-ages, all-comers crowd of jazz and blues lovers with tunes and booze for over 30 years. Toe-tapping bands invade several times weekly, but there's also a pool table, a garden for chilling, cold beer on tap and German comfort food served till 1am.
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Pasta
Fish-shaped ravioli paired with salmon creme is just one of the creative offerings at this popular pasta shop. All noodles are made fresh daily and available for take-away or for eating on the spot, preferably on the terrace. Avoid the lunch-hour rush.
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Alte Mühle
In a historic old mill on the banks of the Trave River, this rustic bistro serves fabulous Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizzas) along with steaks and seasonal specialities. There's a clutch of garden-set tables in summer. Definitely worth the detour.
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W- der Imbiss
The love child of Italian and Indian cooking, W's signature naan pizza is freshly baked in the tandoor oven and mouthwateringly topped with everything from goat cheese to smoked salmon to guacamole. The wok curries and tortilla wraps are tasty too, while the spirulina-laced apple juice keeps hangovers at bay.
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Bratwursthäusle
Seared over a flaming beech-wood grill, the little links sold at this rustic inn arguably set the standard for Rostbratwürste across the land. You can dine in the timbered restaurant or on the terrace with views of the Hauptmarkt. Service can be flustered at busy times.
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Delano
The black wood furniture, fat columns and ringed black-and-white lampshades lend this Italian brasserie an upbeat feel. The pizzas are menacingly large.
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Hausbrauerei Feierling
Freiburg's best beer garden entices summertime crowds to this microbrewery, serving vegie options and monster-sized schnitzels. Take care not to fall in the stream after one too many or you may become dinner for the open-jawed crocodile.
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Zum Uerige
This cavernous beer hall is the best place to soak it all up. The suds flow so quickly from giant copper vats that the waiters – called Köbes – simply carry huge trays of brew and plonk down a glass whenever they spy an empty. Even on a cold day, there are groups all over the street outside.
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Tresznjewski
Tresznjewski This classy brasserie has daring artworks and waiters in full-length aprons. Its hip clientele come for breakfast and, later, a flexible menu ranging from delectable pastas and sandwiches to burgers and Bratwurst.
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Melody Bar
After 10pm you may have to shoehorn your way into this jewel of a cocktail bar that’s an island of sophistication amid the boisterous Altstadt thirst parlours. The drinks are excellent, the owner couple gracious, the crowd mixed and the house dog a cute pooch.
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Sasaya
Whatever you order at this minimalist space has perfect pitch – sushi to salads, tempura to fish. Tables fill quickly with Japanese expats and plugged-in locals, so it’s best to make reservations several days ahead.
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Fischereihafen
Traditional and incredibly elegant, Fischereihafen serves some of Hamburg’s finest fish, including regional specialities, to a mature, well-heeled clientele. Its 1st-floor, subtly maritime-themed dining room overlooks the Elbe. Lobster here comes in many forms.
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Kino, Mond & Sterne
The repertory at this heavenly al fresco amphitheatre runs mostly towards Hollywood classics, including several in English. Take the U6 to 'Westpark'. Come early to stake out a good spot and bring pillows, blankets and snacks.
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Autostadt
Spread across 25 hectares, Autostadt is a celebration of all things VW. A visit to this theme park kicks off with a broad view of automotive design and engineering in the Konzernforum. In the neighbouring Zeithaus you can find out about the history of the Beetle and other VW models. Then, in various outlying pavilions, you can learn more about individual marques, including VW itself, Audi, Bentley, Lamborghini, Seat and Skoda. Many exhibits are interactive and most have signage in German and English. Included in the tour is a 45-minute return Maritime Panorama Tour along the Aller River to the outlying district of Fallersleben. Unfortunately, you can’t get off the boat.
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Päffgen
Busy, loud and boisterous, Päffgen has been pouring Kölsch since 1883 and hasn’t lost a step since. In summer you can enjoy the refreshing brew and local specialities beneath starry skies in the beer garden. Potato pancakes are served on Fridays.
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Prinz Myshkin
Proof if any were needed that the vegetarian experience has left the sandals, beards and lentils era, Munich's premier meat-free dining spot fills out an open-plan, but strangely intimate vaulted dining space, a former brewery, with health-conscious eaters who come to savour imaginative dishes such as curry-orange-carrot soup, tofu stroganoff, 'Save the Tuna' pizza and unexpectedly good curries.
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Joe Peña’s
If you came to southern Germany to eat food from Central America, do it here. Munich's best Tex-Mex joint gets busy during happy hour (5pm to 8pm) and the nosh is tasty and as authentic as you'd expect this side of the pond.
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Creperie Bernard Bernard
The best crepes in town can be found at this small Parisian place that serves up delicious savouries oozing goat's cheese or shrimp, various fruit-filled galettes and even snails if that's your sort of thing.
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Miniatur-Wunderland
Even the worst cynics are quickly transformed into fans of this vast miniature world that goes on and on. The model trains wending their way through the Alps are impressive – but slightly predictably so. But when you see a model A380 swoop out of the sky and land at the fully functional model of Hamburg's airport you can't help but gasp and say some variation of OMG! The current display is a mind-numbing 1300 sq metre; tiny details abound as days change to night. The next addition will include Italy. In busy times, prepurchase your ticket online to skip the queues.
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Zur Letzten Instanz
Oozing folksy Old Berlin charm, this rustic eatery has been an enduring hit since 1621 and has fed everyone from Napoleon to Beethoven to Angela Merkel. Although now tourist-geared, food quality is still pretty high when it comes to such local rib-stickers as Grillhaxe (grilled pork knuckle) and Bouletten (meat patties).
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Sol y Mar
The soft lighting, ambient sounds and sensuous interior (including padded pods for noshing in recline) make this a popular place to chill and dine on feel-good food from around the Med and Asia. Weekday lunch specials from €4.60 and expansive summer terrace.
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PlanWirtschaft
The winning formula at this long-time favourite: fresh ingredients sourced from local suppliers, a menu that dazzles with inventiveness and smiley staff that makes even first-timers feel at home. Sit inside the cafe, the romantic garden or the cosy brick cellar.
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Miera
You can sit down for a platter of antipasti or pick up gourmet picnic goodies at this sophisticated delicatessen-bistro. Reserve ahead to dine in the formal restaurant on elegant Italian fare. There is an excellent wine selection and tables overlooking the Hüxstrasse action are always full (or opt for a quiet courtyard table).
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