Things to do in Lutherstadt Wittenberg
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Lutherhaus
Even those with no previous interest in the Reformation will likely be fascinated by the state-of-the-art exhibits in the Lutherhaus, the former monastery turned Luther family home. Through an engaging mix of accessible narrative (in German and English), spotlit artefacts (eg, his lectern from the Stadtkirche, indulgences chests, Bibles, cloaks), famous oil paintings, and interactive multimedia stations, you'll learn about the man, his times and his impact on world history. Highlights include Cranach's Ten Commandments in the refectory and an original room furnished by Luther in 1535. Kids love the new exhibit in the cellar, which uses wooden models and sensor- activated …
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Haus der Geschichte
If you want to catch a glimpse of daily life beyond the Iron Curtain, pop by the Haus der Geschichte. The ground floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions, while the two upper levels take you through recreated GDR-era living rooms, children's rooms and kitchens alongside such environs as a pub, a store, a kindergarten and other public spaces. There's something oddly endearing about the toys, clunky early consumer items, and the tins and jars that would have been sheer gold for the son recreating the good ol' East in the movie Good Bye, Lenin!
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Hundertwasserschule
How would you like to study grammar and algebra in a building where trees sprout from the windows and gilded onion domes balance above a rooftop garden? This fantastical environment is everyday reality for the lucky 1300 pupils of Wittenberg's Hundertwasserschule. It was the penultimate work of eccentric Viennese artist, architect and eco-visionary Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who was famous for quite literally thinking 'outside the box'.
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Wittenberg English Ministry
From May to October, a changing roster of Lutheran guest preachers, usually from the US, holds free English-language services in Wittenberg's historic sites. Organised by the Wittenberg English Ministry, these are held at 5pm on Saturday in the Schlosskirche or the Stadtkirche. From Wednesday to Friday, half-hour services are also offered at 4.30pm in the tiny Fronleichnamskapelle (Corpus Christi Chapel) attached to the Stadtkirche.
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Town Church of St Mary
If the Schlosskirche was the billboard used to advertise the forthcoming Reformation, the twin-towered Town Church of St Mary was where the ecumenical revolution began, with the world's first Protestant worship services in 1521. It was also here that Luther preached his famous Lectern sermons in 1522, and where he married ex-nun Katharina von Bora three years later.
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Zur Schlossfreiheit
Traditional local dishes are all given historical themes in this cosy, wood-lined restaurant. Treats include Lutherschmaus (duck breast in orange and chocolate sauce, with sultanas) and the Cranachteller (grilled pork fillets with a gratin of spirellini, mushrooms, broccoli and hollandaise sauce).
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Melanchthon Haus
The rather text-heavy Melanchthon Haus discusses the life of university lecturer and humanist Philipp Melanchthon. An expert in ancient languages, Melanchthon helped Luther translate the Bible into German from Greek and Hebrew, becoming the preacher's friend and his most eloquent advocate.
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Café Hundertwasserschule
There's a health-conscious streak at this café - from the no-smoking policy to the vegetarian options and fresh juices - but you're still free to indulge yourself with lamb, venison, home-made cakes or beer should you choose. Hundertwasser touches are dotted around the room.
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Brauhaus Wittenberg
This place - with a cobbled courtyard, indoor brewery and shiny copper vats - thrums with the noise of people having a good time. The menu is hearty but also features smaller dishes for waist-watchers. Upstairs are a few simple rooms with air-con (singles/doubles €50/70).
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Schlosskirche
Did or didn't he (Luther) nail those 95 theses to the door of the Schlosskirche ? We'll never know for sure, for the original portal was destroyed by fire in 1760 and replaced in 1858 with a massive bronze version inscribed with the theses in Latin.
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Exhibit
Lucas Cranach's old residential and work digs have been rebooted as a beautifully restored cultural complex built around two courtyards that often echo with music and readings. There's a permanent exhibit on the man, his life and his contemporaries.
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Galerie im Cranachhaus
Alongside the Lutherhaus, the former homes of two other Reformation stalwarts are now museums. The Galerie im Cranachhaus is devoted to artist Lucas Cranach the Elder, who lived in Wittenberg during the reformation and captured the action in fine detail.
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Event & Touring
To savour more of the same Ostalgie (nostalgia for the old East Germany) pedalled by the Haus der Geschichte, hire a Trabant East German car from Event & Touring. They also arrange Trabi 'safaris' or 'slaloms' for groups.
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MS Lutherstadt Wittenberg
The MS Lutherstadt Wittenberg runs 1½-hour panoramic river cruises (€10) on the Elbe from March to October. Check with the booking office about sailings and how to find the pier in Dessauer Strasse.
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Barrik
As you might imagine, Wittenberg is pretty dead after dark, although the cultural centre called Barrik does its best to entertain the troops with live comedy, dance, cabaret and transvestite shows.
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Tante Emmas Bier- & Caféhaus
Take a step back to the 'good old times' in this German country kitchen, where servers wear frilly white aprons and the room is chock-full of bric-a-brac - from dolls and books to irons and a gramophone.
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Schlossturm
Next door to the Schlosskirche, you can climb the city's landmark Schlossturm, but be warned that the floor feels a little shaky in parts, and the view is expansive rather than breathtaking.
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In Vino Veritas
Antipasti, tapas, salads or pasta dishes form the perfect accompaniment to the global wine menu at this upmarket modern bistro. Locals in the know invade for the Friday buffet (€12.90).
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Café de Marc
This French cafe with its unpretentious literary vibe is a delightful find for breakfast, java jolts or a refined calvados. When the sun's out, the idyllic courtyard is the place to be.
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Historische Druckerstube
The Historische Druckerstube, is a basement gallery selling ancient-looking black-and-white sketches of Martin Luther, both typeset and printed by hand.
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Casinoberg
If you like your beer and pub grub with a side of local colour, swing by this watering hole presided over by the congenial Willi Witt. Beer garden in summer.
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Organ Concerts
The Stadtkirche has organ concerts every Friday, while the Schlosskirche has choir and organ music every Tuesday.
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Independent
A pub at the eastern end of Collegienstrasse where you can suck on a hookah pipe.
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Sweet Apple
A pub at the eastern end of Collegienstrasse where you can suck on a hookah pipe.
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