Kölner Dom

Lonely Planet review

Cologne's geographical and spiritual heart and its main tourist attraction is the magnificent Kölner Dom. With its soaring twin spires, this is the Mt Everest of cathedrals. It's packed with an amazing array of art treasures, and its elegant proportions and dignified ambience leave only the most jaded of visitors untouched.

Building began in 1248 in the French Gothic style but was suspended in 1560 for lack of money. For approximately 300 years, the structure lay half-finished and was even demoted to a horse stable and prison by Napoleon's troops until a generous cash infusion from Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm IV finally led to its completion in 1880.

Luckily, it escaped WWII bombing raids with nary a shrapnel wound and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996. This is Germany's largest cathedral. Circle it before heading inside to truly appreciate its dimensions. Note how its lacy spires and flying buttresses create a sensation of lightness and fragility despite its impressive mass and height.

The pièce de résistance is the Shrine of the Three Magi behind the main altar, a richly bejewelled and gilded sarcophagus said to hold the remains of the kings who followed the star to the stable in Bethlehem where Jesus was born. It was spirited out of Milan in 1164 as spoils of war by Emperor Barbarossa's chancellor and instantly turned Cologne into a major pilgrimage site.