Residenzmuseum

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Lonely Planet review

The Wittelsbach clan are the Bavarian rulers who lived in the Residenz from 1385 to 1918s. Their amazing treasures, as well as all the trappings of their lifestyles, are on display at the Residenzmuseum, which takes up 130 rooms or about half of the palace.

It's so large that it's divided into two sections, one open until , the other in the afternoon, although the most important sections overlap. You can see it all on guided tours or on your own with an audioguide. If you only have time for one tour, come in the morning. Both tours soon take you to the Grottenhof (grotto court), home of the wonderful Perseusbrunnen (Perseus Fountain), with its namesake holding the dripping head of Medusa. Next door is the famous Antiquarium, a barrel-vaulted hall smothered in frescoes and built to house the Wittelsbachs' enormous antique collection. This leads to the Schlachtensäle (Battle Halls) decorated with scenes from the Napoleonic campaigns, some of which Ludwig himself participated in.

Upstairs and only accessible in the morning are the Kurfürstenzimmer (Elector's Rooms) with some stunning Italian portraits and a passage lined with two dozen views of Italy, painted by local romantic artist Carl Rottmann. Also up here, and accessible all day, are François Cuvilliés' Reiche Zimmer (Rich Rooms), a six-room extravaganza of exuberant rococo carried out by the top stucco and fresco artists of the day; they're a definite museum highlight. Both tours also take you through the downstairs Ahnengallery (Ancestors' Gallery), a riot in rococo with 121 portraits of the rulers of Bavaria in chronological order.

Only open in the afternoon are two chapels: the Hofkapelle, which was reserved for the ruler and his family; and the Reichekapelle for the other court residents. Another highlight is the Steinzimmer (Stone Room), awash in intricately patterned and coloured marble, which was where the emperor stayed during his Munich visits.

Even without a museum ticket, you're free to visit the Nibelungensäle (Halls of the Nibelungs) off the Königsbauhof courtyard to marvel at an exhibit depicting the near total destruction of the Residenz in WWII and the miraculous restoration in subsequent decades.