Things to do in Mecklenburg Western Pomerania
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Marienkirche
Central Rostock's pride and joy is the 13th-century Marienkirche, the only main Rostock church to survive WWII unscathed. Behind the main altar, the church's 12m-high astrological clock, built in 1472 by Hans Düringer, is the only working clock of its kind in the world still with its original mechanisms. At the very top of the clock is a series of doors. At noon and midnight the innermost right door opens and six of the 12 apostles march out to parade around Jesus (Judas is locked out). Zodiac symbols and moon phases feature in the centre, while the lower section has a disc that tells the exact day on which Easter falls in any given year. The replaceable discs are accurat…
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Nikolaikirche
Through the Rathaus' eastern walkway you'll come to the main portal of the 1270 Nikolaikirche, which was modelled on Lübeck's Marienkirche and is filled with art treasures. The main altar (1708), designed by the baroque master Andreas Schlüter, shows the eye of God flanked by cherubs and capped by a depiction of the Last Supper. Also worth a closer look are the high altar (1470), 6.7m wide and 4.2m tall, showing Jesus' entire life, and, behind the altar, a 1394-built (but no longer operational) astronomical clock.
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Warnemünde Beach
The jewel in Warnemünde's crown is its long, wide expanse of startlingly white beach. Even the butt-ugly concrete block that's the Hotel Neptun can't spoil it, while the mollusc-shaped Teepott building (think the TWA terminal at New York's JFK airport) and 19th-century lighthouse positively add to its quirky appeal. Warnemünde is all about sunbathing, promenading, eating fish and sipping cocktails on the beach. Sundown, when the crowds have abated slightly, is a memorable time to be here.
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Rathaus Historical Exhibition
The large Rathaus at the square's northern end was built between 1817 and 1819 and today houses the excellent Rathaus Historical Exhibition in its basement. Displays include an original 15th-century Wandmalerei (mural) uncovered by archaeologists in 1985, a glass-covered medieval well, and the Wrangel tomb - the coffin of influential Swedish General Helmut V Wrangel and his wife, with outsized wooden figures carved on top.
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Tafelfreuden
This sunflower-yellow, poppy-red-trimmed wooden villa was built in 1870 as a summer house and is now home to a wonderfully convivial restaurant where set menus utilise fresh produce and are accompanied by an inspired wine list. If you can't drag yourself away, it also has three charming guest rooms (singles €45 to €60, doubles €60 to €75) with beach themes: 'lighthouse', 'shell' and 'Strandkörbe', for the region's iconic sheltered 'beach basket' seats.
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Weinhaus Uhle
Step back in time at this traditional family wine merchant, where the pianist plays beneath stained-glass windows and barrel-vaulted ceilings in the formal restaurant (with tables divided by olive-coloured velvet curtains) and the occasional customer still wears an opera cloak in the wood-lined Weinstube (traditional wine bar). Specialities include chateaubriand, carved at the table, as well as venison and fish.
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Zur Kogge
At this Rostock institution, cosy wooden booths are lined with stained-glass Hanseatic coats of armour and monster fish threatening sailing ships, while life preservers hang from the walls, and ships lanterns are suspended from the ceiling. Local fish dishes (rollmops and so on) dominate the menu, or you can stop by for coffee and cake between meal times. There's an above-average kids' menu, too.
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Neuer Markt
Just around the corner from the Marienkirche is this open square, dominated by the splendid and rather pink 13th-century Rathaus. Opposite the Rathaus is a lovely series of restored gabled houses and a stylised, sea-themed fountain (2001) by artist Waldemar Otto. The explanatory plaque says the four figures are Neptune and his sons, although locals seem to think they represent the four elements.
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Staatliches Museum
In the Alter Garten, the Staatliches Museum has a substantial collection spanning the ages. The 15 statues in the Ernst Barlach room provide a small taste of the sculptor's work. There's also a typically amusing and irreverent Marcel Duchamp collection. Those with more traditional tastes will prefer the oils by Lucas Cranach the Elder, as well as works by Rembrandt and Rubens.
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Die Suppenstube
Funky stainless-steel light fittings made from cutlery, stripped floorboards and bare tables provide a minimalist contrast with the historic half-timbered walls of this house on the edge of the Markt. The menu is equally sparing but stylish - eight steaming kettles of homemade soups (with optional sliced sausage), and three desserts (including a deliciously rich chocolate pudding).
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Alter Schwede
Baltic eel with herbed potatoes, catfish with mustard and a 'captain's bowl' of pork, beef and turkey medallions served on beans with bacon and potatoes are among the specialities of this landmark spot, but there are also a few decent vegetarian choices. Upstairs is a clutch of appealing en suite rooms (singles/doubles €30/45) and a self-contained apartment (€60).
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Fischerklause
Fischerklause is one of the atmospheric old fishermen's cottages lining the western bank of Alter Strom, and attracts plenty of tourists (but then so does all of Warnemünde). Still, its ship's cabin decor and its succulent seafood make it worth seeking out. Afterwards pop in for a drink at the adjoining bar fronted by thatched umbrellas.
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Amberg 13
This relaxed, unassuming restaurant is locally renowned for its ambitious and creative cuisine, with dishes such as Kalbshaxe (knuckle of veal) accompanied by polenta and capsicum, onion, rosemary and sherry ragout, or rabbit with chanterelle mushrooms, garlic gnocchi and green beans. It's accessed via an archway and courtyard.
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Weinhaus Wöhler
In addition to wood-lined dining rooms, a large covered courtyard and a tapas/cocktail bar, this historic, half-timbered inn also shelters six luxury double rooms (€80 to €130) and an apartment (€150). Poached salmon in Riesling, and shredded pork with bacon, potato and cucumber are among the standouts of its regional menu.
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Ducal Residence
Such was the allure of Ludwigslust's sturdy ducal residence that when the ducal seat moved 36km north to Schwerin in 1837, some family members continued to live here until 1945. Now part of the Schwerin State Museum, its high point is the stately, gilt-columned, high-ceilinged Golden Hall.
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Fischerhaus
In one of the newer developments along the eastern bank of Alter Strom (where the food is at least as good as the traditional western bank), this relaxed canteen-style place serves simple but delicious dishes: salmon in beer batter, fried Baltic eel, and - for a change from fish - fried liver with apples, onions and mash.
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St-Georgen-Kirche
The massive red shell of the St-Georgen-Kirche has been extensively renovated for combined use as a church, concert hall and exhibition space and is set to reopen in May 2010. In 1945 a freezing populace was driven to burn what was left of the church's beautiful wooden statue of St George and the dragon.
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Kröpeliner Tor
Today only two of 32 gates, plus a small brick section, remain of the old city wall. The 55m-high Kröpeliner Tor stands at the western end of Kröpeliner Strasse. From here, you can follow the Wallanlagen (city walls) through the pleasant park to Wallstrasse and the other surviving gate, the Steintor.
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Darss-Zingst Peninsula
Nature lovers and artists will be captivated by the Darss-Zingst Peninsula. This far-flung splinter of land is part of the 805-sq-km Vorpommersche Boddenlandschaft (Western Pomeranian Boddenlandschaft) National Park, which also encompasses the island of Hiddensee and the west coast of Rügen Island.
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Schifffahrtsmuseum
Rostock's excellent Schifffahrtsmuseum is moored on the shores of the flower-filled IGAPark on the northwest riverbank. Aboard the ship, there's a rundown on shipping from the Hanseatic period to today, plus the chance to play captain and other hands-on activities.
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Marienkirche
The Neuer Markt is dominated by the massive 14th-century Marienkirche, a superb example of north German redbrick construction. You can climb the steep wooden steps up the tower (adult/child €4/2) for a sweeping view of the town, with its lovely red-tiled roofs, and Rügen Island.
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HanseDom
West of Tribseer Damm is the massive HanseDom, boasting numerous pools including a wave pool, water slides, an array of Oriental-style saunas, massage treatments and sports facilities, as well as several restaurants and bars and a four-star hotel (singles/doubles from €78/118).
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Fischermann's
Don't be dissuaded by Fischermann's touristy location in a tall redbrick warehouse on the waterfront. Many of the diners packing its terrace like sardines on sunny days are locals, who head here for its small but stellar selection of fish dishes - the views across to Rügen are just the bonus.
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Rösterei Fuchs
The aroma of freshly roasted coffee fills this small, chic place, which roasts its own coffee in-house, and also sells beans (ground or unground) as well as gourmet chocolates. At the very least, drop by for an espresso, which comes with an individually wrapped chocolate-covered coffee bean.
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Café Central
In the heart of the scene, Café Central has cult status among Rostock locals. Students, artists, hipsters and suited-up professionals all loll around sipping long drinks on the banquettes below black-and-white photos or enjoy a tall beer over a game of backgammon at the tables in the centre.
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