Things to do in Rostock
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Marienkirche
Central Rostock's pride and joy is the 13th-century Marienkirche, the only main Rostock church to survive WWII unscathed. Behind the main altar, the church's 12m-high astrological clock, built in 1472 by Hans Düringer, is the only working clock of its kind in the world still with its original mechanisms. At the very top of the clock is a series of doors. At noon and midnight the innermost right door opens and six of the 12 apostles march out to parade around Jesus (Judas is locked out). Zodiac symbols and moon phases feature in the centre, while the lower section has a disc that tells the exact day on which Easter falls in any given year. The replaceable discs are accurat…
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Warnemünde Beach
The jewel in Warnemünde's crown is its long, wide expanse of startlingly white beach. Even the butt-ugly concrete block that's the Hotel Neptun can't spoil it, while the mollusc-shaped Teepott building (think the TWA terminal at New York's JFK airport) and 19th-century lighthouse positively add to its quirky appeal. Warnemünde is all about sunbathing, promenading, eating fish and sipping cocktails on the beach. Sundown, when the crowds have abated slightly, is a memorable time to be here.
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Zur Kogge
At this Rostock institution, cosy wooden booths are lined with stained-glass Hanseatic coats of armour and monster fish threatening sailing ships, while life preservers hang from the walls, and ships lanterns are suspended from the ceiling. Local fish dishes (rollmops and so on) dominate the menu, or you can stop by for coffee and cake between meal times. There's an above-average kids' menu, too.
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Neuer Markt
Just around the corner from the Marienkirche is this open square, dominated by the splendid and rather pink 13th-century Rathaus. Opposite the Rathaus is a lovely series of restored gabled houses and a stylised, sea-themed fountain (2001) by artist Waldemar Otto. The explanatory plaque says the four figures are Neptune and his sons, although locals seem to think they represent the four elements.
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Fischerklause
Fischerklause is one of the atmospheric old fishermen's cottages lining the western bank of Alter Strom, and attracts plenty of tourists (but then so does all of Warnemünde). Still, its ship's cabin decor and its succulent seafood make it worth seeking out. Afterwards pop in for a drink at the adjoining bar fronted by thatched umbrellas.
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Amberg 13
This relaxed, unassuming restaurant is locally renowned for its ambitious and creative cuisine, with dishes such as Kalbshaxe (knuckle of veal) accompanied by polenta and capsicum, onion, rosemary and sherry ragout, or rabbit with chanterelle mushrooms, garlic gnocchi and green beans. It's accessed via an archway and courtyard.
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Fischerhaus
In one of the newer developments along the eastern bank of Alter Strom (where the food is at least as good as the traditional western bank), this relaxed canteen-style place serves simple but delicious dishes: salmon in beer batter, fried Baltic eel, and - for a change from fish - fried liver with apples, onions and mash.
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Kröpeliner Tor
Today only two of 32 gates, plus a small brick section, remain of the old city wall. The 55m-high Kröpeliner Tor stands at the western end of Kröpeliner Strasse. From here, you can follow the Wallanlagen (city walls) through the pleasant park to Wallstrasse and the other surviving gate, the Steintor.
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Schifffahrtsmuseum
Rostock's excellent Schifffahrtsmuseum is moored on the shores of the flower-filled IGAPark on the northwest riverbank. Aboard the ship, there's a rundown on shipping from the Hanseatic period to today, plus the chance to play captain and other hands-on activities.
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Café Central
In the heart of the scene, Café Central has cult status among Rostock locals. Students, artists, hipsters and suited-up professionals all loll around sipping long drinks on the banquettes below black-and-white photos or enjoy a tall beer over a game of backgammon at the tables in the centre.
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Ratskeller
Descending the steps to Rostock's circa-eight-century-old Ratskeller (town hall restaurant) brings you into a vast, low-lit series of cross-vaulted rooms that provide an atmospheric backdrop for dining on its hearty German fare (lots of pork, lots of sauerkraut).
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La Villa
Fish dishes have a modern Mediterranean accent at this designer cafe/restaurant, where meals are served in a stripped interior of bare boards, banquettes and high-backed wicker chairs. Its extensive tapas menu is best sampled over a glass of freshly made strawberry punch.
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Holiday & Mehr
Cycling isn't much fun in the centre because of heavy traffic, but things quickly improve outside the city. You can rent bicylcles from either Radstation Rostock, in Rostock, or Holiday & Mehr, located in the Warnemünde Train Station 13km west of Rostock.
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Albert & Emile
Rostock's most romantic place to dine is this French jewel. Behind the ivy-covered facade it's a haven of black-and-white marble tiles and dark timber, chansonniers crooning from the speakers and accomplished haute cuisine on the handwritten menu.
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MS Stubnitz
A former fishing trawler has been converted into Rostock's most unusual and most alternative, grunge-style venue, with bands, DJs and performances over three decks. Beware that the boat sometimes sails off to entertain other cities, too.
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Waldemar & Margarete
This popular café cum restaurant and pub has a friendly atmosphere, with its range of TV sports and film evenings. It serves huge portions of hearty meals, which you can enjoy in the beer garden in summer.
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Green's
Paninis, smoothies and delicious Thai-influenced curries attract a hip, discerning crowd here. For those in a hurry, there's a weekday 'quick lunch', which has to be on your table in 15 minutes or it's free.
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Mau Clubrostock
Everything from indie to punk to disco attracts a wide-ranging crowd to this former storage hall. It's well known for its support of up-and-coming acts and hosts many free local band evenings.
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Kulturhistorische Museum Rostock
The city's cultural history museum, Kulturhistorische Museum Rostock has an interesting collection including Victorian furniture and a few sculptures by Ernst Barlach.
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Atlantic
One of the better-regarded fish restaurants on the western bank of the canal, Atlantic offers just about every type of fish downstairs, and Italian gourmet cuisine on the floor above.
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Tre Kronor
Set in a strange split-level glass-fronted pillar box at the back of a shopping centre, the 'Three Crowns' serves up interesting Swedish dishes, including elk steak with mushrooms.
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Hauptgebäude
True to its name, Universitätsplatz is lined with university buildings, including the handsome terracotta 1866-70 Hauptgebäude, which replaced the famous 'White College'.
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Radstation Rostock
Cycling isn't much fun in the centre because of heavy traffic, but things quickly improve outside the city. You can rent bicycles from Radstation Rostock in the main train station.
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Rathaus
The splendid and rather pink 13th-century Rathaus dominates Neuer Markt. The building's baroque façade was added in 1727 after the original brick Gothic structure collapsed.
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Kröpeliner Strasse
Kröpeliner Strasse, a broad, lively, cobblestone pedestrian mall lined with 15th- and 16th-century burghers' houses, runs from Neuer Markt west to Kröpeliner Tor.
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