Things to do in Hanover
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Messegelände
The Messegelände, the main trade fairgrounds, are in the city's sutheast, served by tram/U-Bahn 8 (and during fair times 18) as well as IC and ICE trains. Tram/U-Bahn 6 serves the eastern part of the fairgrounds near the former Expo site. During major fairs there's a full-service tourist office at the airport and an information pavilion at the fairgrounds, in addition to the main tourist office.
Pressure on accommodation means you really need to book ahead (call 0511 1234 5555) - and be prepared for phenomenal price hikes too. Indeed some visitors choose to stay instead in Hildesheim, Celle (both of which up their own prices during these times) or even in Hamburg, and co…
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Die Nanas Sculptures
The city government was inundated with nearly 20,000 letters of complaint when these three earth-mama sculptures were first installed beside the Leine River in 1974. Now, the voluptuous and fluorescent-coloured 'Sophie', 'Charlotte' and 'Caroline' by French artist Niki de Saint Phalle are among the city's most recognisable - and most loved - landmarks.
Indeed the Nanas helped make De Saint Phalle famous. Devout fans of her work will find a direct trip to Leibnizufer (U-Bahn: Markthalle Landtag) rewarding. Others could be left thinking 'Is that it?' In that case, wait until Saturday, when the extra attraction of a flea market takes place at the Nanas' feet.
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Neues Rathaus
An excellent way to get your bearings in Hanover is to visit the Neues Rathaus (built in 1901-13) and travel 98m to the top in the curved lift inside its green dome. There are several viewing platforms here, and while it's a novelty taking a lift that slants to stay within the dome, it's only on descent that you feel any gravitational swing. The cabin can take only five people at a time, so queues are inevitable.
In the downstairs lobby are four city models showing Hanover from the Middle Ages to today. Comparing the models from 1939 and 1945 drives home the dramatic extent of WWII devastation.
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Sprengel Museum
It's the building as much as the curatorial policy that puts the Sprengel Museum in such high esteem. Its huge interior spaces are brilliant for displaying its modern figurative, abstract and conceptual art, including a few works by Nolde, Chagall and Picasso. At the core of the collection are 300 works by Niki de Saint Phalle, a selection of which is usually on show. Take bus 100 from Kröpcke to the Sprengelmuseum/Maschsee stop.
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Peace Bell
In a city so devastated by war, it's not surprising to find a Peace Bell. Donated by sister city Hiroshima, it lies inside a steel-cross Memorial to Our Dead on Breite Strasse near the corner of Osterstrasse. Every 6 August at 08:15, the date and time of the atomic detonation at Hiroshima, a delegation from both cities meets here to ring the bell. The neighbouring Aegidienkirche Memorial (1350) was bashed by artillery in 1943.
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Pier 51
One of Hanover's loveliest restaurants, and very romantic at sundown, Pier 51 is walled with glass and juts out over the Maschsee. The menu is strong on fish, although you can also choose pasta or meat. In summer, there's an outside 'Piergarten', decked out with the old-fashioned Strandkörbe (straw basket seats) that you see on German beaches. Book at least a few days ahead if you want a window seat at dinner.
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Maschsee Ferry
This ferry plies Maschsee - the artificial lake - from Easter to October in good weather, and there are sailing, pedal and rowing boats for hire. This artificial lake, built by the unemployed in one of the earliest Nazi-led public works projects, is now a favourite spot for boating and swimming. It's certainly the most central at just half an hour's walk away; otherwise take bus 131 to Sprengelmuseum/Maschsee.
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Niki de Sainte Phalle Promenade
Hanover's compact city centre makes it ideal for shopping, although most of what you will find is modern, international fashion. The Niki de Sainte Phalle Promenade - a subterranean shopping strip running below Bahnhofstrasse - is a good place to shop. In addition, a pedestrianised zone full of shops extends south from the Hauptbahnhof, along Bahnhofstrasse, Georgstrasse and Karmarschstrasse.
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Oskar-Winter-Brunnen
The Renaissance façade of the Leibnizhaus is a reconstruction; the house was once the home of mathematician and philosopher Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz (1646-1716). In front of the Leibnizhaus is the Oskar-Winter-Brunnen. If you make a wish and turn the small brass ring embedded in the ironwork three times, local lore has it that the wish will come true.
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Schloss Marienburg
A small part of the palace, Schloss Marienburg, is open to members of the public interested in a behind-the-scenes glimpse of German aristocratic life. Admission is by a one-hour tour, either with a tour guide or using an audio guide (English, French, Polish and Russian available). Tours include the Knight's Hall, Queen's Library and more.
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Hiller
Germany's oldest vegetarian restaurant is such an institution it even has its logo - a carrot - carefully embroidered onto every linen napkin. Despite the modern interior, with swirly green painting and mustard-coloured walls, the atmosphere is quite hushed and the food a tad old-fashioned. That said, come with an appetite if ordering a set menu.
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Altes Rathaus
Some of it is a postwar fake, but parts of Hanover's Altstadt (old town) still look appealingly quaint. The Marktkirche in the market square has original elements and so does the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall, begun in 1455)across the market, and the nearby Ballhof (1649-64), a hall originally built for 17th-century badminton-type games.
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Diablo Latino
Latin club Diablo Latino is based at Raschplatz (the so-called 'golden triangle'), a main clubbing destination - a concrete environs behind the train station.
Raschplatz was due to be renovated in 2007, and the future of all these clubs has been thrown into doubt. Check local listings before heading in this direction.
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Kestner Gesellschaft
It's always worth checking listings for the Kestner Gesellschaft. Having exhibited works by Otto Dix, Georg Grosz, Wassily Kandinsky and Paul Klee before they became famous, the society is still originating shows that later tour Europe. Its wonderfully light, high-ceilinged premises were once a bathhouse.
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AWD Arena
With a capacity of 44,000, this ground is one place where you can usually get last-minute seats (about €35) for matches between Hannover 96 and their opponents (not Bavaria Munich, rarely Schalke 04). Follow the stream of fans or take U-Bahn 3, 7 or 9 from Hauptbahnhof to Waterloo and follow the signs for about 500m.
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Kulturzentrum Faust
Ska from Uruguay, Chinese new year festivals, disco, reggae, heavy metal gigs, multimedia installations, quiz evenings, book readings - this all happens, and more, in this former factory complex. The 1960s concert hall is complemented by a pub-bar, Mephisto, beer garden and cafe. Take tram 10 to Leinaustrasse.
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Sonderbar
This well-styled place has an assortment of Tex-Mex, Spanish and Italian snacks and mains, as well as oven potatoes in the upstairs, upmarket sports bar section (large screens). Downstairs is a lounge. It's aimed at a business and pleasure crowd, and close enough to the station to duck into between trains.
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Georxx
Popular with business-people, office workers, shoppers, tired travellers and even an arty crowd, Georxx has pleasant outdoor seating in summer, a menu offering a taste for everyone (a bit of Asia, a bit of Europe etc) and good lunch specials (€8.50 to €12). Breakfast is a staple, and served until 5pm.
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Biesler
One of the oldest eateries in the city likes to mix the ancient and the modern on its menu. So each day it serves a different traditional German dish, such as roast calves' livers with apple and onion, alongside international fare such as lamb on mushroom 'parfait' with rosemary and fennel.
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Basil
These former stables to the north of town now house a fabulous fusion restaurant, with a high arched ceiling and pressed tablecloths. Imaginative concoctions, such as coffee-marinated duck breast with chicory and pear ragout, are served to an in crowd. Take tram 1 or 2 to Dragonerstrasse.
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Grosser Garten
With its fountains, neat flowerbeds, trimmed hedges and shaped lawns, the 300-year-old Grosser Garten is an experience. There's a maze near the northern entrance, while the Grosse Fontäne (Big Fountain; the tallest in Europe) at the southern end jets water up to 80m high.
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Café Mezzo
Inside the Pavillon, this classic bar and cafe used to be a student hang-out, but today Mezzo gets a balance of ages. It's popular any time of day (including for breakfast), but doubles well as a place to warm up in the evening before moving on to a club or performance.
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Spandau
Retro-'70s Spandau in Hanover's Nordstadt is more like Berlin's Kreuzberg - a place where students from the nearby university and the local Turkish community rub shoulders. The menu is small-ish and features pasta, tofu curry and several more substantial meat dishes.
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Osho Diskothek
Traditionally, a main clubbing destination is in the revamped environs of Raschplatz (the so-called 'golden triangle'). Here you find Osho Diskothek, or 'Baggi' as Hanoverians fondly call it, playing a mix of classic disco hits for the over-25s.
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HeimW
This long, narrow bar has lights shaped like huge droplets of water about to land on your head, an atrium ceiling, potted palms beside cream leather banquettes, and intriguing artwork on the walls. Salads, breakfast and light meals are also served (€5 to €9.50).
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