Fischmarkt

Lonely Planet review

The Fischmarkt has been a Hamburg institution since 1703 and still defines the city's life and spirit. In the wee hours of Sunday morning a fleet of small trucks roars onto the cobbled pavement and hardy types with hands the size of baseball gloves emerge to artfully arrange fresh fruits, seafood and plant matter for trading.

Locals of all walks of life join curious tourists and you can buy everything from sweatshirts and tulips to a scorched bratwurst.

The undisputed stars of the event are the boisterous Marktschreier (market criers). With lascivious winks and leering innuendo, characters like Aal-Dieter or Banana-Harry boast of the quality and size of their product.

More entertainment takes place in the Fischauktionshalle (Fish Auction Hall), where a live band cranks out cover versions of ancient German pop songs. Down in the pit, the beer flows and sausage fumes waft through the air. For those who actually know what time it is, breakfast is served on the gallery, away from the crooners.

Hamburg life thrives here in the good stink of mud and oil and fish. If Bruegel were to paint a picture of Hamburg life, this is where he'd set up his easel.