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Lust auf Italien
If you just can't be bothered to dress up for an Elbmeile evening, the communal wooden benches of this rustic, unpretentious Italian restaurant are the best place to plonk yourself. The pasta and fish dishes are homy rather than gourmet, but the seafood usually tastes like it's just leapt from the sea. Take a post-prandial stroll for a proper look at the river.
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Made in Portugal
The Schanzenviertel teems with Portuguese eateries, especially around the 'piazza' just to the south of this tiny tiled café. This place produces the creamiest custard tarts, as well as simple snacks.
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Oh, It's Fresh
California meets New York meets Hamburg in this chain outlet, which rates a mention not only for its waterfront location and groovy swinging-London logos, but also for its array of healthy salads, bagels, focaccias and international breakfasts. Flock retro wallpaper, a lounge area and a series of world clocks decorate this light-filled, airy space.
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Schweizweit
The strong smell of Swiss cheese might alert you to this small basement bistro's presence before you spot it. Watched over by a cable-car triptych (more Wallpaper* than Heidi), you can enjoy its changing noodle and meat dishes, as well as delicious homemade chocolate mousse.
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Strandperle
The mother of Hamburg's beach bars is little more than a kiosk, but the people-watching is tops, as patrons linger over the MOPO ( Hamburger Morgenpost newspaper) with a snack, coffee, beer or local Fritz-Kola. Take bus 112 to Neumühlen, then walk for five minutes straight ahead (west).
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Sushi for Friends
Handy after an Alster cruise or some shopping around Jungfernstieg, this restaurant serves spicy-tuna-and-rocket rolls, mango chutney sushi and other innovative Japanese dishes. Stay downstairs, where it's all white leather banquettes and dark wood - although the colourful cushions strewn across the mezzanine area look enticing, it can get muggy up there, especially in summer.
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Turnhalle St Georg
Intimate is not a word you could use for this converted gymnasium of a local girls' school, but you still sometimes have trouble getting a seat. Exercise rings and ropes remain hanging from one of the thick white beams under the vaulted A-line roof, but designer lampshades and huge, potted trees have been added to the mix. The happy crowd tucks into modern international cuisine.
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Vienna
Neighbours whisper proudly that this is Hamburg's best German-Austrian restaurant. While it looks like a French country-cottage restaurant, particularly with the overgrown garden hiding its outdoor terrace, the schnitzels, venison and fish are distinctly authentic.
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