Things to do in Black Forest
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Hausbrauerei Feierling
Freiburg's best beer garden entices summertime crowds to this microbrewery, serving vegie options and monster-sized schnitzels. Take care not to fall in the stream after one too many or you may become dinner for the open-jawed crocodile.
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Münster
Freiburg's 11th-century Münster is the monster of all minsters, a red-sandstone giant that looms above the half-timbered façades framing the square. Its riot of punctured spires and gargoyles flush scarlet in the dusk light.
The main portal is adorned with sculptures depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments - spy allegorical figures such as Voluptuousness (the one with snakes on her back) and Satan himself. Nearby are medieval wall markings used to ensure that merchandise (eg loaves of bread) were of the requisite size.
Square at the base, the sturdy tower becomes an octagon higher up and is crowned by a filigreed 116m-high spire. Ascend the tower for an excellen…
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Vitra Design Museum
Sharp angles contrast with graceful swoops and swirls on Frank Gehry's strikingly post-modern Vitra Design Museum. The blindingly white edifice hosts thought-provoking contemporary design exhibitions. Buildings on the nearby Vitra campus, designed by prominent architects like Nicholas Grimshaw, Zaha Hadid and Alvaro Siza, can be visited on a two-hour architectural tour.
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Bächle
Walking around Freiburg, keep an eye out for the Bächle, the permanently flowing rivulets that run along many footpaths. Originally part of an elaborate system to deliver nonpotable water, these literal 'tourist traps' now provide welcome relief for hot feet on sweltering summer days. It's said that if you fall into one you'll marry a Freiburger or a Freiburgerin.
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Steinwasen Park
You'll probably spy the eye-popping, 218m-long hanging bridge before you even reach this family park. Here woodland trails wriggle past roomy enclosures alive with Black Forest and Alpine animals, such as marmots and nimble-footed chamois. Bouncing on the bridge aside, there's fun to be had on whizzy rides like Gletscherblitz and River Splash.
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Kamikaze
Freiburg's hippest club, Kamikaze is a cavelike haunt with exposed brick and plump sofas. DJs spin everything from electro to drum'n'bass, with live music every other week. Try the kamikaze bomber - an explosive mix of Jägermeister, apricot brandy and cranberry juice.
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Museum für Stadtgeschichte
The sculptor Christian Wentzinger's baroque town house, east of the Kaufhaus, now shelters the Museum für Stadtgeschichte, spelling out in artefacts Freiburg's eventful past. Inside a wrought-iron staircase guides the eye to an elaborate ceiling fresco.
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Schlappen
Posters cover every inch of this funky watering hole, which attracts a mixed bunch. Some come for the Flammkuchen, some to sample different types of absinthe, and some to check out the wacky men's urinal - look in the mirror and watch the water flow…
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Kollegiengebäude I
The university quarter, in the area west of Martinstor, consists of an eclectic mix of old and new buildings. The Kollegiengebäude I has Art Nouveau elements, while the Alte Universitätsbibliothek (Old University Library) is resolutely neo-Gothic.
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Restaurant Pars
A favourite with locals who live and work nearby, this place serves delicious and reasonably priced Persian dishes, including lots of vegetarian options, to the accompaniment of mellow Persian music. It's situated across the Dreisam from the Altstadt.
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Archäologisches Museum
In a sculpture-dotted park sits the neo-Gothic Colombischlössle villa, housing the Archäologisches Museum. A cast-iron staircase leads to a stash of archaeological finds from Celtic grave offerings to Roman artefacts.
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Mosaics
As you stroll around Freiburg's mostly pedestrianised Altstadt, be sure to look down at the pavement for the cheerful mosaics found in front of many shops. A diamond marks a jewellery shop, a cow is for a butcher, a pretzel for a baker and so on.
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Historisches Kaufhaus
Facing the Münster's south side is the arcaded brick-red Historisches Kaufhaus, a 16th-century merchants' hall. The coats of arms on the oriels and the four figures above the balcony symbolise Freiburg's allegiance to the House of Habsburg.
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Alte Universitätsbibliothek
The university quarter, in the area west of Martinstor, consists of an eclectic mix of old and new buildings. The Kollegiengebäude I has Art Nouveau elements, while the Alte Universitätsbibliothek is resolutely neo-Gothic.
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Más y Más
This slinky, monochrome bistro is a grown-up choice for Med-inspired dishes, from plump scallops to creamy mozzarella risotto and rose-petal sorbet. The cobbled terrace facing a church is a pleasing spot to sip a glass of something.
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Zylinder Feinkost
Opera plays in this little Italian deli, where Matteo's passion for the minutiae of Chianti and antipasti is contagious. Pull up a stack of crates for a glass of prosecco and homemade focaccia with wafer-thin prosciutto.
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Rathausplatz
Freiburg locals hang out by the fountain in chestnut-shaded Rathausplatz. On its western side, note the red-sandstone Neues Rathaus (New City Hall). On its northern side, the medieval Martinskirche demands attention.
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Martinskirche
The medieval Martinskirche, once part of a Franciscan monastery, demands attention on the northern side of Rathausplatz. Severely damaged in WWII, it was rebuilt in the ascetic style typical of this mendicant order.
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Chang
Same, same but different at this Thai restaurant, kissed with gold and scattered with tables inlaid with teak carvings. The curries, pad thai and smiles are as authentic as any you'll find in Bangkok's backstreets.
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Weinstub Oberkirch
Facing the Münster, this traditional restaurant, with its dark wood-panelled walls, is known among locals for its highly professional service and excellent Black Forest trout. Serves light meals all day long.
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Jazzhaus
Under the brick arches of a wine cellar, this venue stages first-rate jazz, rock and hip-hop concerts at 8pm at least three nights a week. It morphs into a club from 11pm to 3am on Friday and Saturday nights.
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Greiffenegg-Schlössle
This perky hilltop villa tantalises with full-bodied wines and southern flavours like tender lamb with olive polenta. Sunset is primetime viewing on the terrace overlooking Freiburg's blushing red rooftops.
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Münsterplatz Food Market
Stalls are particularly numerous and varied on Saturday. On a per-calorie basis, the least expensive meals in town are the wurst-in-a-bun, topped with fried onions (a Freiburg tradition), sold here.
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Schwabentor
A block east of the Museum of Modern Art is the muralled, 13th-century Schwabentor, a massive city gate with tram tracks running under its arches. Trails nearby wind up to the forested Schlossberg.
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Augustinermuseum
Housed in a former monastery, the Augustinermuseum showcases paintings by Baldung, Matthias Grünewald and Cranach. Its rich collection of medieval stained glass ranks among Germany's finest.
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