French restaurants in Berlin
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A
Margaux
It took culinary wunderkind Michael Hoffman only a year to wow the Michelin testers with his cuisine avantgarde classique. What may sound like an oxymoron actually translates into first-rate ingredients, refined flavours and artistic presentation. And somehow, the divine dishes taste better still against those lush, back-lit onyx walls.
Former Andy Warhol assistant Ingeborg zu Schleswig-Holstein dreamed up the cheery canvases.
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Desbrosses
This 1875 brasserie was moved piece by piece from the south of France to the Ritz-Carlton Berlin and is now anchored by an open kitchen where toqued chefs turn out up-market French country classics – steak frites, boudin noir (blood sausage) and boeuf bourguigon. Be sure not to OD on the crusty breads made in the on-site boulangerie (bakery). Weekday lunch specials go for €14.
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Bandol Sur Mer
OK, so Brad Pitt ate here. But even without a Hollywood endorsement, this teensy bistro in a former döneria (doner kebab shop) on Torstrasse’s evolving restaurant row is worthy of a culinary Oscar. The blackboard menu mixes reliable classics such as entrecôte steak with out-there combos, eg pink lamb with rhubarb. Dining is done in two seatings (6pm and 9pm). Reservations essential.
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Gugelhof
This country-French jewel made headlines when feeding Bill Clinton back in 2000 but thankfully it hasn’t coasted on its fame since. Chefs still keep things real with robust choucroute (a sauerkraut-based stew), cheese fondue, Flammkuche and other Alsatian soul food, plus inventive daily specials. Fabulous hand-picked French and German wines.
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ETA Hoffmann
The folks at Michelin recently confirmed with a ‘bib gourmand’ what locals have long known: Thomas Kurt‘s cuisine is both top notch and spectacularly good value. First-timers at his classically decorated restaurant should try his signature dish, a duck foie gras terrine laced with spiced chocolate. Book ahead. Lovely courtyard in summer.
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Poulette
A former butcher shop has been ingeniously converted into a homey French restaurant where the accent is on light and flavourful cuisine. Start with a Basque fish soup, move on to Barbary duck with pine nut–Grand Marnier jus and let a flambéed crêpe with caramelised fruit be the coda. Lunches are less fancy but a steal at just €9.
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Epoque
This teensy place may look stuffy, but don’t be fooled: chef Carsten Rosener will take your tastebuds on a wild ride. Though trained in classic French cooking, his rebellious imagination produces dishes that defy pigeonholing. Lamb with liquorice anyone? Barbary duck with red beets? Usually it works, rarely it doesn’t.
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Major Grubert
The time-travelling character created by French comic artist Moebius inspired the name of this colourful bistro-pub combo. It’s only fitting then that the food, too, is French. Feast on crêpes, quiches, salads and robust stews, have a glass of wine and get away with less than €10.
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Duke
Head chef Florian Gauert has a knack for pairing punctilious craftsmanship with complementary combinations of flavours, textures and aromas. Spring vegetables, for instance, are matched with preserved blueberries, capers and shaved mushrooms and sea bass meets saffron gnocchi and glazed cucumber. Whenever possible, local or regional organic ingredients are used.
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Café Nord-Sud
In his humble cafe, owner Jean-Claude Malfoy takes on the roles of greeter, seater, server, sommelier and cook in what amounts to a Peter Sellars–worthy performance. Portions aren't huge or super-fancy but at €7.50 for a set three-course meal, all we can say is oh là là!
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La Cocotte
French restaurant with pretty terrace and food that's more country than haute.
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Der Hahn ist tot!
The name translates as 'The rooster is dead!' and the fowl in question would be coq au vin, the classic French country stew that's the signature dish of this warm and pretension-free restaurant. Every night, staff dish up two different four-course dinners costing a mere €18. Either main course can always be substituted for coq au vin or a meatfree dish.
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