French restaurants in Berlin
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A
Margaux
It took culinary wunderkind Michael Hoffman only a year to wow the Michelin testers with his cuisine avantgarde classique. What may sound like an oxymoron actually translates into first-rate ingredients, refined flavours and artistic presentation. And somehow, the divine dishes taste better still against those lush, back-lit onyx walls.
Former Andy Warhol assistant Ingeborg zu Schleswig-Holstein dreamed up the cheery canvases.
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B
Desbrosses
This 140-year-old brasserie was moved piece by piece from France to the Ritz-Carlton Berlin. At its heart is the open kitchen with its classic race-car red enamel oven, which churns out upmarket French country classics – onion soup to steak frites to fresh fruit de mer (seafood). Be sure not to OD on the crusty breads made in the on-site boulangerie ! Kids love the free crayons and hand-carved swings.
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Bandol Sur Mer
OK, so Brad Pitt ate here. But even without a Hollywood endorsement, this teensy bistro in a former döneria (doner kebab shop) on Torstrasse’s evolving restaurant row is worthy of a culinary Oscar. The blackboard menu mixes reliable classics such as entrecôte steak with out-there combos, eg pink lamb with rhubarb. Dining is done in two seatings (6pm and 9pm). Reservations essential.
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D
Gugelhof
This place has been on the tourist radar since Bill Clinton popped by in 2000, but thankfully Gugelhof hasn’t coasted on its fame. Chefs continue to keep things real with robust choucroute (a sauerkraut-based stew), cheese fondue, flammekuche and other Alsatian soul food. Another bonus: the hand-picked list of French and German wines.
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E
ETA Hoffmann
The folks at Michelin recently confirmed with a ‘bib gourmand’ what locals have long known: Thomas Kurt‘s cuisine is both top notch and spectacularly good value. First-timers at his classically decorated restaurant should try his signature dish, a duck foie gras terrine laced with spiced chocolate. Book ahead. Lovely courtyard in summer.
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F
Poulette
A former butcher shop has been ingeniously converted into a homey French restaurant where the accent is on light and flavourful cuisine. Start with a Basque fish soup, move on to Barbary duck with pine nut–Grand Marnier jus and let a flambéed crêpe with caramelised fruit be the coda. Lunches are less fancy but a steal at just €9.
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Epoque
This teensy place may look stuffy, but don’t be fooled: chef Carsten Rosener will take your tastebuds on a wild ride. Though trained in classic French cooking, his rebellious imagination produces dishes that defy pigeonholing. Lamb with liquorice anyone? Barbary duck with red beets? Usually it works, rarely it doesn’t.
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H
Major Grubert
The time-travelling character created by French comic artist Moebius inspired the name of this colourful bistro-pub combo. It’s only fitting then that the food, too, is French. Feast on crêpes, quiches, salads and robust stews, have a glass of wine and get away with less than €10.
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Café Nord-Sud
Truth be told, this place we'd rather keep secret. It's just one of those little gems, you know, always packed to the rafters thanks to Jean-Claude's Gallic charm, the kitchen's formidable talents and the rock-bottom prices.
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J
Facil
With its sleek Donghia chairs, alabaster lamps and honey-hued natural stone, this glass garden at the Mandala Hotel is as breathtaking as Michael Kempf's Michelin-starred fare. Budget gourmets should come for lunch.
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K
La Cocotte
French restaurant with pretty terrace and food that's more country than haute.
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